Mike's 64 Beetle

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Well, as mentioned above I had my pedal cluster rebuilt and had the bushings and springs replaced. At the same time I had the clutch arm upgraded to the “bearing style” from Classic Bug Parts and upgraded to the 66 up style delrin (spool type) roller and put on an upgraded pedal from Fast Fab.

Had nothing but problems…

I decided to go back to the stock style accelerator lever and had my original powdercoated to match the pedal cluster. I installed a new stock style pedal and pedal rebuild it from WW. Turns out, the replacement pedal also fit like shit.

So, I went and dug up my original pedal, polished it up and installed it back onto the car. It fit perfectly.

Moral of the story? Stop trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s worked for 58 years, there’s no reason to fuck with it.

Found the correct style barrel clamps after a bit of a hunt. Got a pack of 20 from VWNOS for $10. A good buy I’d say.



My brake pedal feels a bit low, I have to figure if it is the pushrod out of adjustment or if the drums just need to be adjusted.

[Raj]

Start w the brakes; I very rarely have to adjust the pushrod. You drive that ole girl.... the brakes prob just need a turn or 2.

Glad you wrenching on it Mike!

[ObnoxiousBlue]

On the ride back from VA, I had an occasional knock in the front end that seemed to correlate with suspension travel as I was going down the highway.
I looked underneath and at first sight, I saw that the rubber snubber behind the front right wheel was almost completely gone.
I ordered a new set - and rears as well.

How do these go on? lol

[Raj]

On the ride back from VA, I had an occasional knock in the front end that seemed to correlate with suspension travel as I was going down the highway.
I looked underneath and at first sight, I saw that the rubber snubber behind the front right wheel was almost completely gone.
I ordered a new set - and rears as well.

How do these go on? lol

I forget what beam has what... But I think they are press fit over some metal 'posts' that stick out the beam.

[Glenn]

Use a heat gun to soften the rubber.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Thank you gentlemen!

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Do most folks run a battery disconnect switch to power off the car?
I have a new Optima 6V red top battery in the car - that sucker was expensive!
Curious if I should put a kill switch on the rear kick panel like the one from Super Beetle Solutions:


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=1708934

I have a battery tender for long winter storage (when the battery comes out of the car) and don't have any drains or draws but for just general storage in the garage between drives I'm thinking a switch might be smart.

[Glenn]

I have one of these.

[Raj]

I don't have a switch, but may do something like in the future.
I pull the cable off if shes going to sit for the winter and toss it on a tender/ charger.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Does anyone have a photo showing how the heater box levers get set up on a 40 horse?
I have the exploded diagram from the manual and the parts diagram from Wolfsburg West, but I don’t remember how this came apart and I’m confident it’s not as difficult as my mind has convinced me it is.
I don’t need heat, but I have the cables and it bothers me that I never put this one part back together.

I have this
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg ... cfm?type=1
Hoping someone has an actual photo from the trans side of the heater box showing how the lever and springs get connected.

[Glenn]

Call Brad... he might of worked on them.

[BradleyVW]

Nope, I’ve only disconnected them to remove engine a few times! Should be self explanatory.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I found how to replace the cable online. Seems that it isn't as intuitive as I thought. The manual says the "long" part of the cable goes down the passenger side - but that makes no sense as the drivers side cable has further to travel.
Add to that that the drivers side is missing a metal "lug" that seems to be where the barrel nut clamps to and it's just a folded over piece of cable.
Not sure if that's intended (for running the cables) or if the cable is just driveway-engineered.
I was going to replace the levers since I have to buy the kit for the springs anyway, but was hoping to see a diagram showing how they are assembled.
All the diagrams I see are showing the lever assembly from the opposite side that they mount on - which makes zero sense to me.

Thanks Brad - selling me a darn lemon!
(kidding, I love my car and no you can't have it back)

[Glenn]

Add to that that the drivers side is missing a metal "lug" that seems to be where the barrel nut clamps to and it's just a folded over piece of cable.

Mike,

Are you saying the end of the cable is missing the "thick" end is is bend over like a hook?

When the "lug" breaks off and you just have a thin cable, it's common to use a cotter pin on the barrel connector and make a hook on the end of the wire and loop it through the end of the cotter pin.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Yes, the thick part is missing. I just assumed it was bent over at some point to make it thicker so a regular barrel nut could grab it.

[B MAN]

Yes, the thick part is missing. I just assumed it was bent over at some point to make it thicker so a regular barrel nut could grab it.

whoa.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Well folks - it finally happened! On a recent trip south to Florida for No Dough Weekend I had reached out to the owner of a frame I've been chasing for years... Y E A R S to ask if he was ready to let it go.
We kept in touch through the weekend and on my way back north to New York we detoured in Rocky Mount, North Carolina where this plate frame was sold new and stayed it's entire life. The owner had intended to GIVE it to me, but after having made some absolutely ridiculous offers over the past few years I had to give him something (and was glad he accepted)
This is the frame that's been in the gallery here. It's straight (has a small bow in the top right bolt hole but that can be handled) and I am still deciding if I rock it as is or restore it to better match the car.
While in town we stopped to visit the dealership, which though still standing is now a paint store. It seemed appropriate to frame the building...

[Raj]

so cool..... the hunt is the best part!

[Glenn]

so cool..... the hunt is the best part!

I'm still looking for my virginity.... lost it 62 years ago.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Pasted from TS

Just coming through to show off some restored bling.
My years-long hunt for a Friar frame was well documented in this thread, I had been chasing one in particular that surfaced a few miles from the dealer but long story short, it took lots of patience to convince the owner that I wasn’t a flipper and was going to put it on my car from Friar. After my offer has climbed above $600 he ultimately handed it to me and said to enjoy it.
It was nice but had a small crack in the bolt hole and was spray painted and poorly recolored. It was no longer “original” and needed to be restored to match the car. I got a call today that it was finished and would be arriving to me tomorrow.

[Glenn]

Sorry Mike... unrestored (plate and frame). It's only original once.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

This was not in that original condition, I had the frame but it wasn't nearly that good looking - living with it would have meant living with a crack and the real possibility of it falling off the car. When something is in that-nice of condition "only original once" is a good addage, but when it's deterioration means the risk of further damage or loss I see nothing wrong with a proper sympathetic restoration...

Not to mention mine will see sunlight, yours might get a glimpse of the light through a basement window.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

The TO bearing gave up the ghost last week. I ordered a kit from WW with the new bearing, clutch, and pressure plate. While there I also replaced the cross shaft which had some wear. I also replaced the input shaft seal and hooked it the heat back up. Everything went well, was a pretty simple project and I felt good about everything. Once back together I got an occasional sound, my first inclination was honestly that it sounded like the TO bearing wasn’t spinning freely. I left it and took the car out today. While at the parade, on and off the clutch I heard the “whining” sound again and this time it seems to coincide with my clutch foot on the pedal. I’m disappointed in the quality of the “Classic Line” kit that WW sold me, and will address that in its own time, but will of course be opening it up again to put in a new bearing. JBugs sells a Sachs brand for $38 (though it explicitly says not made in Germany) and Bug City (of which I’m not generally a fan) has a NOS Sachs identical to my old one for $99. I’m not sure if I’m overthinking this.