Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

A little FYI, pushrods for solid lifters are steel, hydro's are aluminum.

i remember reading something about that. i will get a magnet.

Tom wrote:A little FYI, pushrods for solid lifters are steel, hydro's are aluminum.

Tom I checked ratwells site and my own lifters. I think you got it reversed. This is from ratwell:


Here are some clues to look for in order to help you determine if you have hydraulic lifters:

The engine case number begins with GE (bus) or CV (Vanagon).
The fan shroud has a similarly prefixed number.
There is a sticker on the fan shroud indicating zero lash.
The case lacks a bolt with a large 13mm triple square head on the right side of the case between the push rod tubes.
The rocker arms are separated by a wavy spacer washer instead of a spring.
The push rods are one piece steel instead of a large aluminum tube with small steel tips.
If a magnet sticks to the push rod shaft you've got hydraulic (steel) push rods. If it only sticks to the tips, you've got solid (aluminum) push rods.

My pushrods have steel tips and alum shaft. The lifters have no circlip or anything so I assume they are solid. They do have top and side oiling holes however.

So this means my valves have not been adjusted in who knows how many thousands of miles.

is there a way to adjust the valves with the engine out of the bus? can i just turn the center fan bolt?

I ordered a clutch throwout bearing from busdepot. Its sachs, german made. Its the correct part # but they look different on the transmission side. Is this ok to install?

Markus wrote:

Tom wrote:A little FYI, pushrods for solid lifters are steel, hydro's are aluminum.

Tom I checked ratwells site and my own lifters. I think you got it reversed. This is from ratwell:


Here are some clues to look for in order to help you determine if you have hydraulic lifters:

The engine case number begins with GE (bus) or CV (Vanagon).
The fan shroud has a similarly prefixed number.
There is a sticker on the fan shroud indicating zero lash.
The case lacks a bolt with a large 13mm triple square head on the right side of the case between the push rod tubes.
The rocker arms are separated by a wavy spacer washer instead of a spring.
The push rods are one piece steel instead of a large aluminum tube with small steel tips.
If a magnet sticks to the push rod shaft you've got hydraulic (steel) push rods. If it only sticks to the tips, you've got solid (aluminum) push rods.

D'oh !

Kind of counter intuitive, you would think the softer metal would be on the Hydro's, my bad.

Markus wrote:I ordered a clutch throwout bearing from busdepot. Its sachs, german made. Its the correct part # but they look different on the transmission side. Is this ok to install?

I've only done mine so it's hard to tell, I think its okay but I'd post this on TheSamba just to be sure.

will do, thanks Tom. My workplace blocks the samba but not dasvolks which is why i'm on this forum 10x more than samba.

Were better anyway...

Except Glenn, you have to deal with him anywhere you go.

What's "TheSamba"?

its the funky drum beat you can select on a sythesizer keyboard.

I am buttoning up the engine. I have read a some things about putting RTV or some kind of silicone sealant on the pushrod tube o rings. My engine has a retainer spring wire installed. I cleaned everything put on new tube seals with a dab of motor oil for ease of insertion. I would rather not gunk it up with rtv. Do I need to take them back out and use rtv?

I would nit use RTV anywhere where it can inside the engine and float around.

Ok, good.

one more, last question of the week I promise.

The engine to transmission seemed to have no gasket in place. Is there one? Should i use something like permatex or yamabond or just dry?

No gasket or sealet.

Slam it in dry.

ur the best glenn

Markus wrote:ur the best glenn

Easy on the compliments his head is big enough !

Well I'm back up and running, took it for a spin to fill the tank and coffee. Smelled gas when i filled up. By the time I got home there was gas pouring out from the firewall and also a major oil leak that (hopefully) seems to be coming from the oil filler neck. I would guess about at least a quart of gas flowed out. I'm almost certain its the 2" section i replaced that connects the tank to the filler pipe. I cut a straight section of 2: line from NAPA as per ratwell's advice. or maybe it just came off or something. That section is tricky now that the stock part is not available.

well hopefully these will be somewhat easy to deal with.

on the plus side, it shifts like butter and my gas guage works. Clutch is easy, acceleration seems good. idling steady and strong.