Home away from Home, on wheels.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I love having Monday's off... I get so much done!

Found that when my bus is hot, I get a faint hazey cloud that seems to follow me. I looked under the bus during one of it's "smoking episodes" today, and found that oil seems to be dripping down on the passenger side heater box. Looks like its coming from the push rod tubes. Is this a big fix? I've known by the spots on my driveway that I leak oil so it's kind of 'nice' to now know where it is coming from, just want to figure out how best to address this issue.

While on my way back from etown, the CB started giving some serious feedback. I like keeping it on when I'm on the highway, because the truckers talk alot and it makes the trip go fast. Plus, I get good traffic reports!

In any case, something, somewhere between the back of the radio and the tip of the antenna "broke" the radio in a split second lost all clarity both in its receive and transmit modes. Found that not only was there a break inside the fiberglas whip antenna, but also heat-damage on the wires. Bought a new set and will install them tomorrow after work.

[Glenn]

Pushrods tube seals can be replaced by removing the rocker arm assembly, removing the pushrod and removing the tube. New seals and reassemble.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Glenn, is this something I can handle? or is it above my level? The heads dont need to come off? lol

[Glenn]

Heads stays on. The hardest part is adjusting the valves. Never don it on a hydraulic lifter engine/

[Raj]

Heads stays on. The hardest part is adjusting the valves. Never don it on a hydraulic lifter engine/

Why is this?

He would need to use a aftermarket 2 piece pushrod tube....correct?

[Glenn]

Raj... it's a Type 4. the heads don't need top be removed. The tube passes through the head.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Raj... it's a Type 4. the heads don't need top be removed. The tube passes through the head.

I didn't know that either. I like hearing that though,,,

[Raj]

Raj... it's a Type 4. the heads don't need top be removed. The tube passes through the head.

Gotcha. I'd like the expand into t4 mike, as I have never dabbled. If you really wanna address it, maybe a tech session is in order?

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I'm fine with a tech session Raj. But this is my driver lol. So it's not an option to have something go wrong, or come back at the end and say "well, now I have to send it to GT to have them adjust the valves" If someone comes forward (where is Tom btw? ) and says he knows how to set the valves on a hydraulic lifter motor, I'd be welcome to have everyone over. I'll get some food and we'll have a good ol day with it.

[Tom]

Did I hear my name mentioned ?

Okay, first off I'm glad to hear the leak is on the passenger side,unless it's the head itself there no other seal on that side too leak. When you take the rocker assembly off there is a tension wire that holds the pushrod tubes in place that also has to be removed. I have extra tubes that I'll donate in case we damage one removing it (they don't always come out easy).As far as adjustment goes when we put the rocker arm assembly back on it will be what it was. If you want to do a full adjustment the engine has to be warm (hydro's fully pumped up) and then it is done just like a type 1 except you go to zero valve lash (no space between rocker arm and valve) plus 1 and a half turns.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Thanks Tom!

This head WAS replaced, with a rebuilt off one of Wilm's bad motors about 2 years ago. There is a case saver or a helicoil in there, and I recall Tony saying that there wasn't anything more can be done if that were to let go.

Tom, if this is something youre confident in, I'd happily have everyone over on a date youre available to lead us...

Engine stays in, right?

[Tom]

I've never replaced the seals but this job does not seem to be difficult, I would ask what other people use for sealant on the new seals ?

Before we go through this make sure it's not just a leaky valve cover gasket.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Ok, is it the same valve cover gasket as a beetle? Or do I need to order some? Maybe Amity Foreign has some in stock.

I want to clean the underside of the engine to see for certain where the leak is coming from. What can I use that works well?

[Raj]

Ok, is it the same valve cover gasket as a beetle? Or do I need to order some? Maybe Amity Foreign has some in stock.

I want to clean the underside of the engine to see for certain where the leak is coming from. What can I use that works well?

gunk; simple green; or power purple.

all nasty stuff but good grease/ cutting/ oil removers

[Glenn]

Simple Green is mild on the hands... i use it all the time working on distributors. i even clean my bike with it.

Mike, valve cover gaskets are different. Tony has them in stock.

[Tom]

Simple Green is mild on the hands... i use it all the time working on distributors. i even clean my bike with it.

Mike, valve cover gaskets are different. Tony has them in stock.

I'm sure Tony has the seals too.

Bill recommended the heavy duty degreaser they sell by the gallon at Home Depot. He recommended you wear gloves while using it though so it must be pretty strong.

[Raj]

Bill recommended the heavy duty degreaser they sell by the gallon at Home Depot. He recommended you wear gloves while using it though so it must be pretty strong.

I too use the ZEP 'purple stuff ' or something like that. I buy it at HD in 5 gallon jugs. Perfect for motor teardowns/ rebuilds

Its some nasty stuff, so dont get it on glossy paint/ powder coated or polished aluminum. Ask me how i know.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I guess Ill spray it down with some Simple Green.

Ill reach out to Tony to see about swinging down after work one day to pick up a set of valve cover gaskets. Ill swap those out after I clean the bottom side of the engine, and then if that doesnt rectify the situation will try and set up a date for a Tech Session at my house.

So long as I keep checking the oil, this isn't dangerous right? I cant hurt the engine can I?

[Tom]

As long as the leak doesn't get too bad and you keep an eye on it you should be okay, it will just get to be a mess if you don't address it soon.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Ok, well I kinda made a judgement call today.

While Id love to have everyone over for a tech session, I have a BIG trip to Salem Ma. planned for the weekend of 10/5-8 and I need to know that everything is ready to go. I'm dropping the bus down at GT tonight, because it has also needed a tie rod end replaced for several months. Time to just bite the bullet.

Also, ordered a set of "Pop Up Gizmos" I've been working with the manufacturer, a user on a camping website I (as well as Charlie!) am on, PopUpPortal.com Gizmos are insulated bunk end liners, essentially a thermal barrier that has become real popular on the pop up camper scene. With measurements from my bus, he is creating a template to fit the pop tops. It is essentially a jacket, that will be put on the front of the canvas and wrap around to the backside, enveloping the canvas and keeping heat in. I just paid for the material on the final version. Which I think is fair.

[Raj]

very cool mike.... cant wait to see this 'blanket'

[AoT]

As long as the leak doesn't get too bad and you keep an eye on it you should be okay, it will just get to be a mess if you don't address it soon.

Not the same problem as me but oil is so messy!!

[AoT]

Also, ordered a set of "Pop Up Gizmos"

Someone's got a nice idea!

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Yup, here's the drawings do far...

[ObnoxiousBlue]

This was the most recent "project" Bob, the manufacturer and I were hashing out the best way to secure the "gizmos" to the bus canvas. We decided on a jacket style insulator, that when wrapped around the backside of the canvas would "tuck" under the fiberglass lid. But since there is a roughly 10" overhang of the lid at the back of the bus, we needed a way to really hold the liner to the canvas to eliminate it flying off in a wind. We decided on 4, 18 inch long 2 inch wide straps of webbing. There will be plastic clip/buckles tha can tighten a bit to pull in the "slack"