Help on stuck exhaust stud

[gary haberman]

Replacing the muffler on my '66 T1, 3 of the studs came out nicely (a little penetration oil and double nutting) but the 4th was stripped by the PO. There is not enough stud to use an extractor and I don't have a welder (considering buying a core welder though...). Has anyone used heat successfully on the head then vice grips to remove it? Engine is in the car BTW.

[Raj]

Saw your email yesterday.... was slammed at work then was putting tires on my truck last night. Sorry

Anyway... I HOPED the engine is out of the car, but now i see differently. Installing a muffler in the car is never fun. Why did you change the studs? I generally run a die over the existing to clean them up and use them.
Heat is your friend. I recommend using heat on any old fastener where paint is not an issue ( and fire of course). The head metal is soft and will expand nicely with some heat. Try to grab the nub with a needle nose vice grip. Maybe it will work. IF not..... one last resort. Cut the stud flush, drill and retap the hole. ( hence why i hoped your engine is out)

Keep us posted... and post some pics of the carnage!

[Glenn]

Yes, the aluminum will expand faster than the steel stud. But it will also melt and warp so be careful.

[Brown]

I've never tried removing the studs from the head with heat, was always afraid of damaging the head, but ever since i started using
heat to remove the nuts I've never broken a stud off. Heat is definitely your friend.

[gary haberman]

The car's PO had headers and glass packs on the car. When I removed the headers, one of the studs came off with its nut. They were all rusted and threadworn. Two of them came out nicely with the "double-nut" method and some penetrating oil. The last stud was the worst (pass side, bottom)-its thread would not hold a nut tightly, I tried heat as advised (as much as I dared) but it will not budge. I'm thinking of welding a nut on to the end of the stud (mentioned repeatedly on TheSamba) but first I have to get a welder (I'm thinking of picking up a used or cheap core welder) and then learning how to use it (I am also going to need a rear bumper bracket welded on eventually). So..this is where I stand. I don't have plates on the car as I wanted it be at least somewhat quiet rolling down the street (my present ride is my '62 T1, a real joy). Anyone know a welder who makes house calls?

[Raj]

...the other option that has worked only once in my life was..... cut a slot in the top of the stud. used a flat head screw driver to back stud out. Again... hardly ever works, but worth a shot.

Never tried the welded nut approach. But it it snaps the stud off, then what? drill and tap sounds inevitable.

[Brown]

I've read about the welded nut method and have tried it about 5 times and it has never worked! I think you need a powerful welder to get penetration into the stud!

[gary haberman]

I guess a core welder would not be "powerful" enough... My garage is a bit small for me to pull my engine and it's too cold outside (and wet today at least) to do it outdoors. I'm thinking of just putting the muffler on with 3 of the 4 nuts and taking her down to GT Precision to have them replace the stud; I also need the fuel line replaced (the PO ran a length of copper tubing under the heater channel). This car is one disaster after another. Oddly enough, after a tune up, replacing the car and putting in the proper distributor, the car starts right up every time. I haven't checked the compression yet but I'm sure it sucks. Luckily I'm retired and have the time to work on her..just not the money!

[gary haberman]

thought I'd update my experience with my stuck exhaust stud-tried every passive method of removing it until it finally broke off. Oy! But-ran into Glenn at GT Precision when I was having FE work done on my '62 and he suggested just drilling it out and retapping it-Doh! Should have thought of that-had it done in 10 minutes-installed new stud and subsequently the muffler. Still having problems properly mating the muffler to the heater box but it seems that this is not an uncommon problem. I took a break from working on the back of the car and now on the front, replacing the fuel tank (did this in my '62-got it from WW-really nice) as well as cleaning up rust and replacing brake lines, hoses, shocks and the steering damper. Sure glad I'm not working-otherwise I'd have no time to play mechanic! So much to learn!

[Brown]

Gary, thanks for the update! It's always good to come back and close out a thread when the problem is solved!

I've got a bunch of old heads that I'm going to event eventually get around to playing with to see the best way to get the stud out. I'll report what I find!

[Raj]

great! at least its solved. On to bigger and better things!


PS....

Oy! But-ran into Glenn at GT Precision when I was having FE work done on my '62 and he suggested just drilling it out and retapping it-Doh! Should have thought of that-had it done in 10 minutes.....

I think this was suggested on your initial post.


Now lets see some pics of this car

[gary haberman]

Raj, engine never the left the car-I have a right angled drill so drilling it out wasn't so bad as long as I kept a steady hand-it was tapping it which made me hesitate-then I found a chuck like device to hold a tap (instead of a handle) that I can use with a 3/8" ratchet (didn't know these things exist...I learn so much with these cars) and the problem was solved. Also had grief changing the front shocks getting the sleeve off of the lower torsion arms-PB Blaster and a MAP torch solved that problem; this is getting to be fun! At the rate I'm going, I keep pushing off getting plates for this car-I just keep working on it.

[Raj]

oh its a learning excersize to say the least.

Frozen shock sleeves are common too. Glad you not afraid of some fire.... heat is your friend. Another trick it to use a cut off wheel and cut a slit lengthwise, trying not to damage the shaft below. Use a sharp chisel after to clean it up and split that puppy in half. Debur the shaft with a file or sand paper.... shes good for another 50 years of service!