Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

AoT wrote:Nice work on the seat. A fresh change on the fabric and it looks like new. Your crafting skills are working magic on the bus.

Glad to hear it was an easy fix on the heaters.

Thanks, the old foam pad was shot. As soon as the cover came off it just deteriorated all over the place. So, I replaced it with 1" batting, which I then doubled up on because when the cover was pulled taught the 1" just fell flat and offered no cushion.

elrockk wrote:not being a bus guy but that pic leaves alot to the imagineation what happens in the bus stays in the bus

Yah, it was pretty nasty on the top... Lol

Raj wrote:nice work... where does that box go? Cant wait to see it installed.

Goes between the front seats.

I like mine too, the only problem is when it's between the seats it is a PIA to get to the sear belt receiver !

Tom wrote:I like mine too, the only problem is when it's between the seats it is a PIA to get to the sear belt receiver !

Triple your life insurance and don't wear a belt. It's a win - win for Ronnie.

Anyway, you can't be ejected in a accident. Your legs will be trapped by the front panel crushing your legs against the seat.

Glenn wrote:

Tom wrote:I like mine too, the only problem is when it's between the seats it is a PIA to get to the sear belt receiver !

Triple your life insurance and don't wear a belt. It's a win - win for Ronnie.

Anyway, you can't be ejected in a accident. Your legs will be trapped by the front panel crushing your legs against the seat.

Both comforting thoughts, thank Glenn.

Raj wrote:nice work... where does that box go? Cant wait to see it installed.

Between the front seats

Tom Don't worry. Mike can put you back together and if he's to late he can make you look better dead than you do now!

EDNCAROL wrote:Tom Don't worry. Mike can put you back together and if he's to late he can make you look better dead than you do now!

Sure... a little PVC and your legs will be as good as new.

Glenn wrote: Sure... a little PVC and your legs will be as good as new.

Awwww! You listen to me!

Glenn wrote:

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:Spoke to Chico at CPR today, and will be ordering up a new long block shortly....

You always knew it was coming.

You're 100% correct. This engine owes me nothing. It has just over 45k on it since I got it - that's a shit ton of miles for a crap shoot of an engine. It's been to Florida 3 times, and countless other shows through the tristate and beyond.
I've been noticing for some time that the engine sounds like it is missing at idle, but with even a slight increase in RPM it goes right away. Issue is that at higher RPM there is straigh oil spewing from the tail pipe. I held a paper towel in front of the pipe for 5 seconds (I counted) it was SATURATED. This bus travels too far to be gambling in this engine anymore. The heads each have helicoils, it leaks more than it should, and overall has served its purpose well.
If someone needs a cheap runner it might work well short term just to help someone get a bus in the road. But it's time to invest a bit.
I'll paint the engine bay, powder the tins and replace all the lines and rubber while the engine is out.
Also on the winter list is a few small body repairs (now in preparation for the new rear bumper)
Powder coat the bumpers, overiders, and roo bars.
Maybe a new stereo system come spring if budget allows.
Anyone wanna help me drop an engine? Lol
Anyone have a place to store a bus! Ha

Did you order the longblock yet ? Are you going to stay with the Hydro lifters or going solid ?

Wow, glad you made it home under your own power as that is a long trip. Sounds like you've got a plan and I'm sure Peabody will be a "happy camper" to be running again on all 4's.

Can't help with storage but if you need a hand with the new engine let me know. I've never seen a build in progress!

To keep the bus "driveable" as long as possible I'm going to get the new engine here first. Picking up a NOS type IV case from Manny and sending it off to Chicco. Spoke to him Thursday and undoubtedly it is less expensive to buy a new long block than start chasing issues on the current engine.
Once that's back, it'll go to GT and I'll probably drop the engine here before sending the bus to get the engine bay painted.
I'll send all the engine tins, along with the bumpers and Roo's to get powdercoated. They'll probably go to Brooklyn because it'll cost me less to let Carmela's dad do them than Action or Renu.
Order the new clutch kit, fuel lines, vent lines, a rebuilt EFI harness, and a rebuilt AFM.
Once done the whole bus will go down to GT for install. I'll probably service the gas heater while the engine is out
Come spring - if I'm not broke - I'd like a new stereo, speakers and to refinish the interior panels and ceiling.

You could save yourself a bunch of money doing it yourself but that's up to you . Are you going to remove the engine and transmission together ?

New gas tank and sending unit ???

Doing it all myself isn't a feasible option as I don't have anywhere to work on it here. I no longer have the garage and won't work on it out in the winter-cold. I don't have enough hands, having only done it once before. Added, in order to protect myself with Chicco's warranty it needs to be installed by an approved servicer - just the same I hope for no problems.
Ed, I might have the tank sealed and boiled. The new tanks are garbage, and there aren't many options for FI buses - especially the smaller fuel tanks that late busses use with the Eberspacher. The sending unit is still relatively new - maybe a year - however inaccurate it may be.

It's water under the bridge now but I don't remember Chico ever telling me I would void my warranty installing the engine myself.

Mike,
If you want you can feel free to use my garage to do the swap, depending on when you do this and how long is takes. Happy to let you work on it solo, make it a tech session or somewhere in bw. Just an idea and keep me posted.

Posting just so I have my info all in one place...

Headflow Masters - 2.0 w/ New AMC castings, rebuilt with new rockers, springs, valves, seats and guides - $3250
Chico - 2.0 w/ Rebuilt VW heads, rockers, springs, valves, seats and guides - $2900

Kyle Harnesses
New FI Harness $399
Fuel Pump Harness w/ fused pump to the double relay $180

Ok, so... It's begun.
The bus is down at GT now, they're taking the old 2.0 down and stripping it. Right now, the plan is to get the bumpers and tins all back to me so I can get the off to powder coat and set them aside till spring. They'll go back on with the correct bolt caps, and I'll be getting rid of the faux impact strip that's on them right now. A Westy shouldn't have impact strips.
They'll get me back the tins on the engine also to be powder coated.
Removing the remote oil cooler and the remote spin on filter. A Type IV has a stock spin on filter there's no need to over complicate the build with unnecessary hoses.

Yet to order:
Webcam 73 (or 86) camshaft
Webcam gear
Solid lifters (I wanted hydro, but the guy who is doing the heads said I should run solid )
Push rods
Bearings
Heads (Len Hoffman Blueprint Specials)

In the time the engine is being built, the bus will head back to Greenlawn to get the engine bay painted and repairs to the front doors and rear bumper mount.

New mirrors are on the way too...
Uber rare VW truck mirrors for the bay.

Awesome plan Mike... That old motor served you so many great miles, cant wait to see what's next!

Saw these mirrors via FB briefly..... do tell. I have never seen them before.

Sounds like a good plan, I think you will be happy with the solid lifters, I wish I would have thought of that.

Doing valve adjustments is easy. I'll be happy to show you how.

Can someone give me the skinny on pro/ cons of solid vs hydro?

There are pro's and con's to both but if you don't drive you bus everyday (me) and sometimes it sits for weeks (me again) the Hydro lifters tend to drain down and partially collapse and your bus runs noisy and crappy until they pump up again. The pro part is you don't have to adjust them ever 3k miles.

Tom wrote:The pro part is you don't have to adjust them ever 3k miles.

I don't have to adjust them in my Subaru.

BTW, In the 14,000 miles i've driven the 74 with the 2180, after the first 1000 miles, i think there were only 3 valves that needed adjusting. I check then ever Fall before i put it way and they rarely go out of adjustment. It only takes 15 minutes to check and adjust.