Had some fun with the bus last night. Got the new brake switches in and the the brake lights are back on. Lost a little fluid so will have to check on that. Tried running a new wire from the horm back to the fuse box but still no action there. Have to go to plan B.
Opened up the box of things picked off the bus at GT and found some goodies. Put the cups on for the inside door handle. I also put the door pulls that I picked up at Litchfield. Just need to put on the new door grommets and door panel clips. There was also a nice set of seat belt catches. The PO had put a coat of paint all over the interior and these are clean metal with the black plastic buckle. Much to my surprise there was the catch for the engine compartment in there. I was looking for one and don't remember where this one came from. Now the door latches rather than swaying in the wind.
The PO painting also made it way to various items on the exterior so fortunately there was a DS mirror in my box to replace the one was on the bus.
New one is a big improvement. Is that a VW bug in the reflection??
I needed sun visors and the deal at Litchfield was originally 2 for $5, but then the guy thru me his whole inventory for $5 so I picked the best of the bunch and some soft scrub cleaned them up nice. I will use some of my savings from buying new ones for something else.
Got the engine out and the muffler off. The dreaded nuts by the heater boxes came off real easy. Spent most of the afternoon cleaning off the oily mess. The oil cooler seals that seemn to be the problem looked somewhat new but the new ones are going in this week anyway. Got the sending unit connected and some of the wires for the oil pressure gauges i redid since lots of bare wire was exposed and just wrapped in plastic. Long hot day but got alot accomplished.
Thanks to Busbbq Bill for his help dropping the engine and know how.
Normally but no sealant is required but I agree Raj I use a little non Rtv sealant such as aviation permatex , gasacich, hi-tack etc .. I like permatex copper spray.
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ObnoxiousBlue wrote: quickly diagnosed as a break in the wire, and in no more than a twiddle of his finger Peabody and I took it back to the pavement
"I will be Setting aside my trusty can of starter fluid"
Had good luck getting the engine out and the muffler off. While it is out I am going to get a new external oil filter and mount it outside the engine compartment. The one here (on the left with the nasty blue hoses) is very cumbersome and all the hoses are dry and brittle. And it just collects are the road dirt with the plastic hose coil cover.
this is the wiring t that I found going to the coil after I removed the hose wrap. I reran new wires.
Found out the connection for the reverse lights was not connected to the tranny so they are back on.
The one between the cooler and adapter or the ones between the adapter and case?
You have to remove the intake manifold and cylinder tin to replace the adapter/case seals.
Took all the seals off. Both sets didn't look too bad or broken but figured it was better to change them both than have to do it again. Need to get another set.
Got the horn tooting. Had to run new wires and install a horn button on the dash. Was all set to get it inspected but then i remembered the engine is out.
The muffler was delivered so need to get going on that and finish up on the oil cooler. Think i need a MH day from work to get ahead of the curve.
Tom wrote:Are you going to replace the oil cooler ?
Ordering one today. I checked the one at home and mine does not have this black seal on it. anyway it is going to be replaced. thanks for the goodies Tom!!
She said the oil was spraying everywhere, if it was a seal I would think it would just leak but if you have a good way to test it one way or another have at it !
Glenn wrote:Remember that the fan is blowing air through the cooler and will spray oil everywhere.
I'd rather use a German oil cooler than a Euromax that's made in China.
I can get a Meyle today for $60. Meyle is a German company but i'm 99.99999% sure it's made in China.
Whats your recommendation? The whole engine compartment gets misted with oil. All 4 cooler seals were pliable and looked new. There was little oil pooling around the cooler. You think it is just the foam that needs to be replaced?
Turn it upside down, fill it with a thin fluid that won't evaporate and piece it on a white paper towel. If it leaks it will stain the paper towel and the level will drop.
Glenn wrote:Turn it upside down, fill it with a thin fluid that won't evaporate and piece it on a white paper towel. If it leaks it will stain the paper towel and the level will drop.
Ok. I gave it a bath in kerosene to clean it up. I'll do this when I get home. Can I use juice as a thin fluid (like my favorite cranberry, no pulp) since it will have some color?
Glenn wrote:Turn it upside down, fill it with a thin fluid that won't evaporate and piece it on a white paper towel. If it leaks it will stain the paper towel and the level will drop.
Well i completed the "cooler"-ade test and it did not leak. Let it sit full to the rim for about an hour and not a drop on the towel. Then i pitched and rotated it on all sides and still good so we'll blame the seals. Good call GR for saving me some cash.
The turn signal housing was loose and the screws to tighten it were maxed so i put a hose clamp around the housing and worked like a charm. Stays put.
Hope to get the cooler and seals back on this Sunday. Tomorrow is out.
What did you end up putting in it ? I think I would have let it sit overnight because you have to remember that when this is working it is under pressure . I'm sure Glenn will correct me if I'm wrong (he likes to do that ).
