Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

got the car on the road today took it for a short drive thru the nieghborhood. brakes good im just not used to no power brakes,shifts smooth just have to get used to it. and number 2 cylinder started missfiring so i have to look into that tomorrow. anyone know of a link on how to adjust a pic34 with the large and small needles

I wired up a new turn signal switch yesterday. Mine had a BUNCH of wires coming out, I used 5.

Brown and brown/white are the high beam switch. One goes to terminal S on the relay, the other to ground.
Grey is power in to the signals, I put the flasher inline ahead of it and tapped off this for the indicator in the speedometer.
Red is the right side signals
Blue is left side

Test with a meter (I'm sure you know this) your mileage may vary.

Adjusting the 34PICT3:
http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

thanks for the link. i was looking to buy a new switch and on jbugs they say to cut wires you arent using so ill roll with what i got

I separated the wires into 2 bundles and heat shrinked them. The unused are sealed in case I ever do need them (like my previous switch), the wires I'm using are also kept in a neat bundle where they're visibly exiting the column.

found why number 2 was missing i think that may have happened getting the feel for the shifter with a fourth to first downshift. put it back together and adjusted the valves on that side and all seems good. thanks for that link Charlie thats exactly what i was looking for. after i adjust the valves on the other side im gonna follow that step by step

I know that feeling when a downshift goes wrong. When I very first had the buggy on the road I had the shift lockout upside down. I had to push down for 3rd and 4th, they were VERY hard to find. I was headed to the FLAPS one afternoon while being tailgated by a suburban. I wound 2nd up pretty good and went for third, but I got 1st. Thankfully the suburban driver was at least paying attention, she missed me. She leaned on the horn and I could hear her yelling, but that was mostly her fault for tailgating.

got the valves adjusted on the other side points set and i believe the timing is correct bringing in full advance at 3000 rpm. smells a little rich but i want to road test it as is matbe take it to work tomorrow

That first "Real drive" is always awesome!

congrats!

x2 on the first "real drive" whether u cruise back home or "limp" its always a good time

took it to work today only 4 miles each way. no problems but was a little bucky coming into mid throttle,i think a timing problem i think. it has mechanical advance which i thought i set as per a link but when i checked it at idle 850 rpm i got this
which im assuming to be about 20 degrees BFTDC if the center of the case is the timing mark?. does anyone know what the base timing at idle should be for a mechanicle advance distributer. from what ive found no cars came with these from the factory so i dont know where it should be at idle. and put in the speedo cable today should it be lubed in any way or left dry?

I don't remember ever actually doing it, but I believe speedo cables need dry graphite powder. If you don't have it, ask a Cub Scout's dad- they need it for the pine wood derby car wheels. If nowhere else, craft stores will have it in the derby car section.

I'm FAR from an expert, but IIRC the distributor should be 28-32* fully advanced @3K RPM?

ahh yes i still have the pinewood derby graphite in the the basement our car was fast and the local rules were submit your car to race and you cant adjust/modify after that. but some how the loosers got to redo there round after round so we lost. photo will follow. im getting full advance by 3000rpm but i think 20 btdc is much

Not sure what to tell you there. I've adjusted my timing once 2.5 years ago and I still haven't had a chance to take it for a "real" test drive. Soon though.

while trying to adjust the choke tonight the car ran out of gas in the garage after running 2-3 minutes maybe that was my bucking chugging problem? i put 4 gallons in tonight will do more in the morning and take it for my coffee run and see whats up. is there a market for old used vw parts? i got these 2 boxes from a guy a bought some patch panels from theres a bunch of bosch voltage regulators relays knobs and who knows what i think its 6 volt stuff one package said for 50-66 beetle

saturday was a fun day went for a beer run about 5 miles each way. got gas on the way there and made it with no problems. on the way back it started pinging and bucking drove the last mile home in first gear pingimg and bucking got half way up my drive way and it was done i got out and the passenger rear rotor was cherry red the picture does no justice to red roters,let it cool for awhile and it still wouldnt move. cracked the bleeder and the brake let go turns out the old rubber brake hoses were shot

not letting the fluid to go back.so i changed both rear hoses today bleed the brakes and went for a road test. OMG what a difference i think the rear brakes were on a little bit since day one till they just stayed on. the car is more peppy then ever

then i did seat belts after that they were nasty
rinsed them and hung them to dry

Good move on the hoses..... They can look good from the outside, but actual have issues within. As you said, they restrict the flow of fluid on the inside. the master is Strong enough to push the fluid through, but the return springs arent strong enough to release. Very common on these old cars.

Just a warning to everyone, seat belts do deteriorate over time.

Belts using at the track have to be less than 5 years old or you won't pass safety.

Sunlight and UV attacks the nylon just as it destroys rubber and plastic over time.

yeah i know about the track rule seen a few people doctor the dates on there harness. for me now ill use what i got as i dont see breaking 40 -50 mph in my near future and not get a seat belt ticket. and yeah raj i should have changed them when i did the brakes but im thrifty and they looked ok

took the car to work today, dropped the timingto 7 degrees from about 20 readjusted the carb and getting the big screw out past 2 turns runs much better. drove about 15 miles with no problems think i got it over 50 mph no shakes drives straight with no hands on the wheel.only issue is it bottoms out into and out of my driveway so i think ill adjust the rear torsion bars up an inch or 2

does anyone know where to get replacement keys from? i can get the blanks but dont know of anyone local that can cut them

gave him my ignition & door locks he cut me 5 keys for around $25

i think he said a copy will run me $2/3

161 Hempstead Ave, West Hempstead, NY 11552
(516) 538-8444

elrockk wrote:does anyone know where to get replacement keys from? i can get the blanks but dont know of anyone local that can cut them

if you can get the blanks, any local locksmith can but the keys for a nominal charge

they cut keys at work but the machine is to new/fancy just to copy a key old school