Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

Or a pump from a flat. (which is more than I can say!)

Big_kid wrote:Or a pump from a flat. (which is more than I can say!)

I hope this helps.

LOL! Nice!

Are you going to use the red silicone intake boots? I hear they are better than the black rubber ones.

Glenn wrote: Those are the points.

This is a rotor.

touche, GR. I appreciate the correction even though I know it is the part name but in my haste to post up my fingers got ahead of my brain! Will have to be on red alert calling parts by name!!

Tom wrote:Are you going to use the red silicone intake boots? I hear they are better than the black rubber ones.

They are on order and will go in this weekend. The ones in use are dry and could be adding to the bus not running good.

AoT wrote:

Tom wrote:Are you going to use the red silicone intake boots? I hear they are better than the black rubber ones.

They are on order and will go in this weekend. The ones in use are dry and could be adding to the bus not running good.

To test the boots spray some carb cleaner/ starting fluid at them while the bus is running? Any change in revs? Then they are leaking.

Glenn wrote:It's not like she doesn't know her left shoe from her right.

Ah Haaaa. I was wondering when someone would pull this one out. ^^^

How did it sound AOT. Might want to check the compression for the fun of it.

Glenn A wrote:Might want to check the compression for the fun of it.

I have a compression gauge if you need one.

Glenn A wrote:

Glenn wrote:It's not like she doesn't know her left shoe from her right.

Ah Haaaa. I was wondering when someone would pull this one out. ^^^

Are you sure about that GR?

Took you long enough.

Glenn wrote:Took you long enough.

WHAT?? I can't hear you!!

Spent some time on the bus the past two days. Yesterday I started draining out the nasty old gas. It really stinks! Got about 3 gallons out and still more to go.

No it's not ice tea but is the same color!


Today we tackled the boots and manifold gaskets. Had to be creative in getting the manifold off but that was the easy part after we found out that the old gaskets were paper that had turned to tar. Used a long list of things to get them clean and after 2 hours they were done. New metal gaskets and RED boots later, things were looking better.


Bill thought the prob to keep,the engine running was a carb issue. I started the engine after the new boots were on but no difference. Bill brought over a carb that he knew was good and once was put on the engine, it turned right over and ran non-stop until i turned it off. Bill is going to work on the one that was in there to see if he can get it cleaned up and running smooth. I am working to get all the excess crap out of the engine compartment and give it a degreasing and shop vac clean. Really thankful for all Bill's knowledge and expertise plus the great weather!

Happy to help and It was a great day and the weather was perfect!

if you guys need carburetors, I have a couple of milk crates full of them, and rebuild kits, just let me know. I'll be happy to help.

mannys66 wrote:if you guys need carburetors, I have a couple of milk crates full of them, and rebuild kits, just let me know. I'll be happy to help.

Thanks, will follow up if needed.

nice job aot and busbq.

Great work! Can't wait to hear it purr.

Cool! Problem isolated & found and the fix in the works. I love it when a plan comes together!

Got a late start today, my living, breathing Dubs needed to see the vet. Blood, limping and swelling are not good signs! He's on the mend!

DId a little housecleaning today. There is lots of dirt in the engine compartment. Looks like it has been on some muddy trails in the past.

Rear compartment driver side holds lots of extraneous stuff. Think I need to drill a new weeping hole further back since the one there does not do the job.


Simply green, a toothbrush and a good scrub.



Rear compartment passenger side. The battery tray floor is shaky in spots. The gray area next to the wheel well is rusted through and the battery was not secured down.




Got a good amount of the grease build up removed, and i redid the connection to the oil temp. got rid of all that tape and lengthy wire.



Clear shot of the original dirty red paint and after.



Removed or cable tied alot of the extra wiring to clean things up. the hose around the generator is the bypass we've used when running the bus since the tank is nasty and the vice is holding the line from the tank. These are all temp.


Now i have to clean my other house!

You're quite the busy bee.

Does anyone know where i can get a schematic of the fuel tank for a 71 bus. I still have work to do to get the tank cleaned out and it would be helpful to know where the outlet is that goes to the fuel pump. I need to start putting in fresh gas to try and flush the old stuff out. Would it be helpful to put some type of additive in to make the process more efficient and if so what the recommendation?

Still think dropping the engine would make the most sense for a variety of reasons. Thoughts?

Pull that motor out, cleaning that tank tucked where it is would be impossible to do.

When I worked at the lawnmower shop and we had to clean out a metal tank, we'd remove it, drain it, put some gas in it, then add a handful of nuts, bolts, etc, seal it up and shake it up really well. That would break loose the buildup so it would come out. 2 or 3 rounds of this usually did the trick, but sometimes it would reveal holes where the tank was eaten through.

Good luck with yours!

Big_kid wrote:When I worked at the lawnmower shop and we had to clean out a metal tank, we'd remove it, drain it, put some gas in it, then add a handful of nuts, bolts, etc, seal it up and shake it up really well. That would break loose the buildup so it would come out. 2 or 3 rounds of this usually did the trick, but sometimes it would reveal holes where the tank was eaten through.

Good luck with yours!

Good tip Charlie.
I use a metal chain instead of bolts as it has less sharp edges to puncture thin metal.