BEN GRIMM 73' WESTY

[Glenn]

great job on the brakes.... safety first.

what's the latest on the engine search?

[SUMTHING]

I'm going to touch base W/ Brian at the end of the month and hope he hasn't gotten rid of the "runner" we had been talking about, then I'll have to take a ride up to Syracuse and get it....anybody know an inexpensive source for sand blasting and powdercoating? I have to do tires, and If I can afford it I want to clean up the rims...

[ObnoxiousBlue]

http://www.actionpowdercoat.com

They will blast the wheels for you. If you're going that far, you might look to have them powder coated while you've got the tires off. I think it cost me like $60/wheel. (?)
Else, you can have a local shop remove the tires, strip the old paint off, then wait until spring or warmer weather to paint them.

As for tires, make sure to get the rated tires. I had been on car tires previously, the RA08's were a HUGE upgrade.

[VwJay]

If your comfortable with the task. I bought a tire bead breaker and tire iron/levers from Harbor Freight. Mount and dismount tires myself. Not to pricey for the setup either. But you must have patience or wheel damage can occur.

[Tom]

Nice work Dave , you have a garage now to work in or are you working outside ?

[AoT]

Must feel good to get some work done. Getting ready for the season. I also switched to LT (light truck) tires to help with handing and it made a difference. Keep it going!

I just had an issue with the calipher pins on my Tribute. Locked up with the cold and warped the rotors. All replaced . Always feels better when they are working right!

[SUMTHING]

Thanks Mike...I'll call action tomorrow, see what they want for a bead blast and powdercoat in a RAL 9007 color
There is a local STS tire store that I called and they can get the Hankook RA08's. they will pull the tires and give me back the rims to clean them up, then they will do the install and balance all for $125 per.
Jay, thakns for the offer, honestly I can't get the tires any less than $99, then I would have to pay for shipping and balancing, don't think it would be less than the $125 ea.
I'm working outside these days and I look forward to warmer weather...I have a 60,000BTU propane heater, but I'm waiting for colder weather (HA!)

[Raj]

Looks like its coming along. I know the weather has been rough, but stay on it and enjoy the fruits of your labors come spring time!

[SUMTHING]

SO......I have a few engines im looking at...one of them is out of a 76, she's FI and I dont want to deal w/ FI...Im on a tight buget...new carb sugestions??

[Glenn]

Dual IDFs $800 for the complete kit
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=6414

Don't think for a minute about using a Weber Progressive. They suck and are a waste of money.

If you just can't spend the $800, then buy this used setup for $150 and save for the dual IDFs for later.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1588443

[SUMTHING]

what about: DUAL EMPI 34MM ?
key word...Budget

[Glenn]

Nah....

I know you're on a budget, get the Progressive for $150. You can always sell it for that much when you have the cash for the dual IDFs.

Personally I never liked dual single barrel carbs. Dual dual throat carbs are the "monkey's ass" when it comes to tuning. One throat for each cylinder.

[Tom]

I have a Weber progressive on mine and it works fine, now having said that I will be returning my bus to FI. From everything I read and hear about once you get it in and working it is bulletproof. If everything is there what's the cost of trying to get it to work ?

[ObnoxiousBlue]

If the engine comes with the complete system, then the hardest part is fitting the return line for the fuel on the tank. Ultimately, would be easiest to get a late model fuel tank, though it wouldn't be expensive to have the fitting brazed in.

Dave, one of the BIGGEST complaints on thesamba's Bay forum, is that either people having issues with inferior carbs. Ultimately, many go to FI. That may not be an option here, but buying a good carb set up will go alot further and make the bus owning experience more go, and less slow if you spend this money wisely. Cut something else from the re-assebly don't buy junk.

[Tom]

I would like to recall my last post, I forgot that this bus wasn't FI to begin with so that would require a lot more work.

[SUMTHING]

Ben Grimm has a heart!!
I picked up a used engine...
She's a GE code...looks like out of a '78-79
means 2L with hydraulic lifters...she was a FI, now going to be carborated (I'm looking for options)
going to start breaking her down this weekend for a good look see, going over and a clean up..
see if we can get her beating spit spot..
will need a new exaust, and probibly the heater bx's
I have all new std tune up parts..plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, points...
Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate look brand new...
pictures to follow...

[Glenn]

Sounds great.

Did you see it run?

[SUMTHING]

No...but I gave it a good once over, and it looks solid.
For what I was spending, I had to toss the dice.
my though was worse senerio, I'll part it out and the case becomes a core for something else...

[Raj]

good to hear. One step close my friend.

[SUMTHING]

So...started a little discovery stage see what's what

Removing the Tins...

Tins off...new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate...and a CRUSTY heat exchanger

I CALL THIS THE GLENN RING MONEY SHOT....ISN'T SHE SEXY.....

and if that didn't do it....LOOK at the prize inside !


no a bad day....

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Well... It's an engine. That looks like one of those rev limiting rotors, and that's no Ring Money Shot, it's an aluminum body. He don't fix no stinkin' aluminum! Lol
That heat exchanger is toast. Matter of fact, it's probably trapping and concentrating heat under the head rather than directing it out the ass of the bus.
Speaking of the ass of the bus,how you doing today Dave? Kidding of course!
But back to the bus. Can the can, ditch the cat. Check the condition of the F pipes off the heads, if the heater boxes are crunchy the F pipes probably are too. Careful removing the boxes, that "U" pipe will probably want to snap in half. Lots of PB blaster...
You don't need to pass emissions, so get yourself the Bus Depot extractor (it's a good, solid, and cheap exhaust set up...) all in you're looking at $120 for the extractor versus $3-400 to try and track down all the 7 or 8 pieces on a factory Federal exhaust like you have now.

[SUMTHING]

I don't have an engine stand, but from waht I can see so far, the F pipes are ok, and both "U" pipes...when your looking at the engine the left heat exchanger is in ok shape, but the right one is toast...I cut the cat and the muffler off in hopes of getting to the bolts on the flanges, and there is no way they will come off easy...I cant even make out the bolts, nuts, there like large globs of rust...besides PB, heat, and/or a hack saw...how else can these be taken apart...anyone w/ a plasma cutter?
In the distributor is electronic ignition....no points to adjust...and cause its a '78 hydraulic lifters...no valves to adjust..
yea, I'm going the extractor set up, quick easy and painless in the walet.

so.. so far..I need one or a pair of heat exchangers...the exhaust, carbs, voltage regulator, and also a fuel pump, now that she is no longer FI, I need an electric pump for fuel delivery...

[AoT]

After looking at these pics glad my bus is a type 1 engine. Lots more parts on this FI. Hope it all comes together soon and painlessly!!

[SUMTHING]

all the vent connecting tube's will need to be replaced.




all out and ready for a good boil and seal ...get the inside ready for some fresh gas

[Raj]

Let me know if you see/ hear of anything else...
!

one can never have too many spares
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1614212