Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

Glenn wrote:

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:

Glenn wrote:Glad you finally finished a Beetle.

Anyone seen a blue super around?

Ouch. That hurts.
I wonder where my car is now. Lol

So didn't Joe sell it locally in queens? You should reach out to him and ask.

Here we go again.

Looking for some pointers.

I am removing my pedal cluster from my 64 bug. Sending it out for a rebuild, as its kinda overdue.

I pulled the rear drivers wheel off for access to the clutch cable, and removed the nut holding it in place. I also disconnected the accelerator cable from the carb and made sure it could go through the bowden tube easily. Then, I put the rear wheel back on and put my bug back on the ground.

I moved forward flipped the floor mats over to the other side for easy access to the cluster. I removed the 2 bolts holding the pedal assembly to the tunnel, then disconnected the accelerator cable from the Z bar, and removed the pin to pull the accelerator pedal off of the floor bracket.

Now, I am trying to understand how to remove the assembly from the brake pushrod. There is a nut there, do I turn that nut, or the "cage"?

Its out.

Glenn wrote:Its out.

Uh. Yah. Since 2002…

Oh, you meant the cluster!
Yah. That’s out too.

Mike... I think I noticed this when your car was over. I forget, but pls check this while your under there. Are you missing the ' bowden tube' equivalent on your throttle cable? It should have some sheathing at the rear of the car as it exits the tunnel and heads towards the engine. I feel like your is missing. Not a huge deal, but might as well correct it since your in there.

It was corrected. The tube is there, and I have a hose clamp on the back side to keep it from sliding forward.
Thanks for watching out!

Anytime!

Took the pedal cluster out last night. It wasn’t too bad, but definitely made me phone-a-friend and take to YouTube for some pointers. My garage is narrow, so the night started off with me getting the car in a bit of an angle so I could get some space between the bug and the wall. Removed the rear wheel and got the clutch cable disconnected, then moved to the accelerator cable. With both free, I put the rear wheel back on and set the car back on the floor.
I got the two bolts holding the cluster to the tunnel off. They were snug, I’ll probably chase those threads. I couldn’t figure out how to get the push rod out from the rubber grommet, with the rod in place I couldn’t rotate the cluster out from the hole in the tunnel. Turns out, there is a metal tab that folds over the pin and the pin just sits in place to hold the rod in. Once that was done, the rest came out easy. I wanted to remove the clutch cable because the bowden tube has some light cracks and the start of dry rot, but the cable doesn’t quite want to fit through. I assume it’s just gunked up and will need some persuasion. I left that for another day because either way, the car isn’t able to move right now.
Cluster went off to PedalWerks today for a rebuild. Staying with my cluster, but he’s going to strip it down, powdercoat the arms (not going for the wider clutch arm) is adding a bushing to the accelerator pedal and installing a FastFab pedal and return. As well as upgrading the clutch cable hook. Mine was really worn down, there was about 3/16” of metal left before the book came loose. Will clean up the floor, paint it to seal it up, and post photos when it goes back together.
Looking forward to the pedal feeling solid and not squeaky.

Mine wasn’t that bad of course, but it was well on its way, and really surprising how much of the metal had eroded compared to how thick it should have been.

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:Mine wasn’t that bad of course, but it was well on its way, and really surprising how much of the metal had eroded compared to how thick it should have been.

Yeah.. its nuts right? Generally one never knows its so badly worn until it fails. And at that points, you can only home your close to home or in 4th on the highway! Good move on the pedal clean up over the winter break

Raj wrote:

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:Mine wasn’t that bad of course, but it was well on its way, and really surprising how much of the metal had eroded compared to how thick it should have been.

Yeah.. its nuts right? Generally one never knows its so badly worn until it fails. And at that points, you can only home your close to home or in 4th on the highway! Good move on the pedal clean up over the winter break

Come on Raj, we've all driven with no clutch.. it's not that hard.

But have you ever driven across the G/W bridge with no brakes ?

Earlier this year when the bug was at Gerhards Automotive in Huntington for the timing gear issue, Hans mentioned I had a small tear in my axle boot.
I’m wanting to address this before I take the car to Florida in the spring.
Foremost, what’s involved on a car like mine?
Second, if I need axles where is the best place to get rebuilt axles?
I’m not really wanting new aftermarket garbage.
Is there a “Glenn Ring” of the axle world?

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:Earlier this year when the bug was at Gerhards Automotive in Huntington for the timing gear issue, Hans mentioned I had a small tear in my axle boot.
I’m wanting to address this before I take the car to Florida in the spring.
Foremost, what’s involved on a car like mine?
Second, if I need axles where is the best place to get rebuilt axles?
I’m not really wanting new aftermarket garbage.
Is there a “Glenn Ring” of the axle world?

I would call both Manny and Raj as they've most likely dealt with axle issues more than anyone else here.

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:Earlier this year when the bug was at Gerhards Automotive in Huntington for the timing gear issue, Hans mentioned I had a small tear in my axle boot.
I’m wanting to address this before I take the car to Florida in the spring.
Foremost, what’s involved on a car like mine?
Second, if I need axles where is the best place to get rebuilt axles?
I’m not really wanting new aftermarket garbage.
Is there a “Glenn Ring” of the axle world?

Not much to rebuilt.... the Axel is nothing like a IRS with wearable CV"s. Its solid metal thats strong as hell... hence why the baja and drag racers love SA. If you are doing a split boot, not a huge job, just need to play w those little screws and clock the sean correctly ( check the samba). Dont put the seam up top as most would assume. For a seemless boot, I think you need to pull of the entire brake assy and its more involved.

Raj wrote:

ObnoxiousBlue wrote:If you are doing a split boot, not a huge job, just need to play w those little screws and clock the sean correctly ( check the samba). Dont put the seam up top as most would assume.

This is why I love you guys - and why I’m glad to be tinkering again.

Am I “cheating” to use the split boots? Like is that a temporary fix and I should just “do it right” the first time?
Other than the boot installation (thanks Glenn) what else should I be doing while I’m in there?

The instructions above seem to say the seam should be between 10 and 2, vertical, and horizontal- all while three images show starkly different things. One image is straight back, one is pointing to the nut at 2 o’clock, and one illustration shows straight up.
Which is it? Lol

If I remember correctly, that’s what’s on there! They were on long before I bought the bug. So if they’re temporary, they last at least 25 years.

BradleyVW wrote:If I remember correctly, that’s what’s on there! They were on long before I bought the bug. So if they’re temporary, they last at least 25 years.

Next time, please buy a car with higher quality parts. I expect better on my vehicles.

Hey folks. Checking in here for some ideas. I removed my old clutch cable and bowden tube, as well as my old accelerator cable today and replaced them with new. Then, I hooked the cables onto the cluster, and got everything installed into the tunnel. I got the clutch hooked on and it has about a half inch of dead play before grabbing, got the brake pedal secured with the spring and the push rod with the tab.
I’m having an issue with my accelerator cable which seems to be about 3/8-1/2” too long. I confirmed it is the correct P/N from WW for my year car though I of course understand that this is my first “red flag” curious if anyone has something I might be missing here. The metal lug-end of the accelerator cable comes too far through the barrel nut on the carb linkage even when the accelerator pedal is in the idle position.

Both cables are too long.

You can add some washer and M8 nuts to take up the slack on the clutch cable.

Clutch cables come in 2281mm, 2270mm and 2260mm.
Accelerator cables come in 2627mm, 2650mm and 2608mm

The clutch cable went on with no problem and is comfortably within adjustment. It has about 1/4” of play before I start to get pressure on the pedal.The accelerator cable is the wonky one. It seems that the “pivot point” on the cluster is a bit more rearward on the rebuilt cluster (has the Classic Bugs bearing pivot arm now) which in turn pushes the whole cable out the back of the car about 3/8”-1/2”. I bought a shorter cable (for a ‘52-‘57) and will try that, otherwise will go with the “dune buggy” style cut to length.