Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

Damn, I've been wanting to make new slider and hatch panels for ages.

Looking forward to seeing this wrapped up.

Got the rear and slider panels covered.

Some spray adhesive to hold in place then fan the corners to lay flat. Contact cement on the edges.


All covered. Going to let the glue set before i hang them with the studded clips.


Cut out front door panels. Not much to salvage on the old ones.


New panels cut out and trimmed to fit. Will cover them in the am.


Got some rear flectors in my pickings so hung them up off the rear bumper. Can always use some extra coverage.


Not too happy about the rust on the bottom of the rear window. Cleaned it out with rust inhibitor and por15 it. Hope the new seal has something to grab.


Busy day on the bus!

Look it... you taking it tomorrow?

The bus had been making lots of noise as it rides over uneven roadways and it seems to be getting worse. Realized it's making the same noise as my Tribute and those tie rods needed to be changed.

At the meeting last night, took it for a ride and it seems like the drag link might be the issue. This connects the swing lever to steering box drop arm. The tie rods have some minor play as well and should most likely be done if the drag link needs to come out?

Does anyone have any experience in changing this out or suggestions?

Thanks.

Hey Audrey,

If you are doing tie rods then do the link also while you are under there if there is play - be prepared to use heat to remove that thing though (mine was seized pretty bad) and definitely get it for a proper alignment afterward.

When I got my Westy my drag link was shot. It's easy to check just go under there with someone turning the wheel back and fourth and you will see / feel where the play is. Do not rule out the center pin and ball joints also as they are prone to wear and will make noise over bumps. Is your steering sloppy at all? Do you feel as though the bus is unstable especially at highway speeds?

coppertop666 wrote:Hey Audrey,

If you are doing tie rods then do the link also while you are under there if there is play - be prepared to use heat to remove that thing though (mine was seized pretty bad) and definitely get it for a proper alignment afterward.

Thats the plan to replace the link and tie rods. Going to order them tomorrow. Thanks. Good to hear from you. How is your little cutie?

Wish I was closer. I've got the pickle forks & the air hammer.

After you get everything replaced you can ballpark the toe setting using a tape measure, but get it in for a real alignment ASAP. Your tires will thank you for it by lasting a LOT longer.

AoT wrote:

coppertop666 wrote:Hey Audrey,

If you are doing tie rods then do the link also while you are under there if there is play - be prepared to use heat to remove that thing though (mine was seized pretty bad) and definitely get it for a proper alignment afterward.

Thats the plan to replace the link and tie rods. Going to order them tomorrow. Thanks. Good to hear from you. How is your little cutie?

Make sure that you adjust the new one as close as you can to the old one when putting it in so it doesn't throw your alignment off too much. Also be prepared for everything to really tighten up when driving (especially at highway speeds) as it may throw you off how sensitive the steering can be once everything is back in working order. Definitely go easy until you get used to it!

On another note, everything good here thanks!! The little one is getting bigger everyday (literally!)


Hopefully soon we can get out for a Wed meeting and bring the little one for some VW time!

Moving along on getting the door panels done.

Got the front panels covered in vinyl. I put a layer of foam under to give it some softness.



I biught a bag of roxul to insulate the slder and rear door. Heard about this stuff from Holmes vs Homes. Its a lava wool but no fiberglass.



Its easy to work with and cuts like butter. Glued onto the door after i took off the old stuff.



Cleaned all the old glue off the door to get a fresh surface. Lots of old vapor barrier and dirt removed



New vapor barriers on so just need to add the final touched.

Im a little behind on my TV, does that insulation normally take place of the std faced roll r-19 and the like? How much more expensive is it?

Progress! Cool! Never heard of that insulation- is it a NY thing? Kinda like "Suffolk" laundry soap was?

The Safe N Sound is fire proofing and sound control used generally on interior walls with no R value. $42.63 for 60 sq ft at lowes( standard 2x4 wall, 24 on center, im sure 16 on center is cheaper) Roxul also makes Comfortbatt which has an R15 value for 2x4 walls 16 on center 35.98 for about 60sq ft at lowes. For exterior walls I would maintain using the craftfaced johns manville or certainteed products. Just my 2 cents and by the way great write up audrey! I always tune in to your updates.

good to know Matt and Audrey. I'm working on a project a home and want to dampen the sound of the new TV room from the bedrooms. This looks like a perfect fit.... better than the sound deading Sheet rock thats big dough!

Dont mean to derail, but yes roxul would be perfect for that or I've heard from carpenters Homasote board installed before sheetrock works well.

Roxul would be the perfect solution to minimize the tv noise. The 16" would go right between the floor joists.

Finished the slider and rear hatch. Was a little tricky matching up the holes that had been predrilled but got it all worked out.

Slider with roxul installed.



Panel on. I was able to reuse most of the buttons but also ordered more. I am going to use this technique on the front panels.



Rear hatch door finished. Just needto get the new window seal installed and give it a coat of paint.



was not happy working in this dreary weather but once i got started it wasn't too bad.

Those look awesome. You should help me do mine haha

Picked up the new oil cooler and got it installed.

Hope this will be the end of this headache and oil everywhere.

Out with the old



In with the new



Engine needs a good wash down to get it looking sweet!

purdy!

Was there a lot of oil inside the fan shroud ?

Tom wrote:Was there a lot of oil inside the fan shroud ?

I spent time cleaning the engine compartment and engine of oil. The housing for the cooler was oily but the place that seemed to be heavily covered were the louvers on the bottom on the shroud. Gave the inside of the dizzy a good wipe down too!.

Got the engine back in the bus yesterday thanks to Bill. Appreciate you giving me the time. Think this was the eaiest its been to get it re-installed. Bus didn't want to turn over and it has been a while since it was on the road so gave the battery a charge and cleaned off the starter and the magic was back. Needs a new battery since even the PO had issues with it.

Have to give it a good cleanout since i so many projects going on when it was still somewhat warm and before the hurricane (can't believe that was 4 weeks ago). Took it for a long ride down to ghe beach today and felt good to be at the wheel again. Its going to the parade next week so it needs some decorating.

Next up is the ball joints!

AoT wrote:Got the engine back in the bus yesterday thanks to Bill. Appreciate you giving me the time. Think this was the eaiest its been to get it re-installed. Bus didn't want to turn over and it has been a while since it was on the road so gave the battery a charge and cleaned off the starter and the magic was back. Needs a new battery since even the PO had issues with it.

Have to give it a good cleanout since i so many projects going on when it was still somewhat warm and before the hurricane (can't believe that was 4 weeks ago). Took it for a long ride down to ghe beach today and felt good to be at the wheel again. Its going to the parade next week so it needs some decorating.

Next up is the ball joints!

Nice work aud. I have a ball joint tool made for vw that I have yet to use, so your welcome too it when the time comes.

Good news of the day. I checked the engine compartment after my ride to the beach and there was no sign of any oil misting from the cooler. The rear wall was dry and no oil leaking. Hope the new cooler solves this issue.

Yeah! Good work solving this plaguing yet annoying issue.

This being my first winter driving the bus I felt how cold they get when I drove to the meeting at Ben's with no heat. Got out early this morning and checked the heater boxes since they were not connected when we got the engine back in. One is missing the piece that goes into the barrel nut and the other did not have the heater tube on.

Got some sheathed 16 gauge wire and wired the flaps open and put the missing heater tube on the other. Took it out on a run on the pky and now I've got heat in the cabin. Its not tropical but my feet were warm. Have to close up some other holes to get it more airtight but felt much better even with the wind and cold at 55mph.