'71 White Wagon

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Aud, I've seen people craft cab dividers. You might want to think about fashioning something to put from floor to ceiling just behind the seats. There's no sense in "heating" the back of the bus when your struggling to heat up the space as is.
The simplest I've seen was just a drop cloth. The most elegant was two sheets of 1/8 MDF one cut to the the contour of the roof, the other cut to the shape of the floor; fastened in the middle with pipe insulation to fill the voids around the edges.

[Tom]

I am going to try the curtain I used to put up when I was camping (before I bought the eye's). I seem to have plenty of heat, just too much space.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I have plenty of heat, and plenty of space!

[Tom]

I have plenty of heat, and plenty of space!

nobody likes bragging here .

[AoT]

I am going to try the curtain I used to put up when I was camping (before I bought the eye's). I seem to have plenty of heat, just too much space.

Going to give the curtain method a try since I have one too, ready to go!!

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Just remember guys, if your heat system is stock, you should either tape off or secure your curtain behind the heat outlet on the floor just behind the bulkheads. Think the "white line" of a VW.
I also found in my readings, that removing the "Y" from the main heater tube increases output. You then duct the pass side box directly to the floor vent for the rear, and the drivers side box to the main stack up to the front of the bus. This is apparently a common, and popular practice because it increases pressure and flow to the floor vent and is said to make the bus warmer, faster.

[AoT]

Not sure where all this takes place but I'll do some investigating. thanks.

[AoT]

Where's the nice weather this weekend? Had some things planned but the only thing I got done was getting the new battery installed. The battery tray is short on support so I used the old license plate to beef if up. Cranked over on the first try.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Come on over, we'll do your window! It'll be good practice, I'm doin mine later this week!
Kidding on the practice part. It's cheesecake.

I got a fresh battery tray myself

[AoT]

dropped the bus off to get the upper/lower ball joints replaced. I had bought new tie rods and pittman bar that i was going to replace myself, but now they will install them when it gets puts back together. Anxious to see how it will handle on the road.

I feel like i just dropped my child off at the first day of school. this is the first time the bus has been away from me since I got it and it feels weird. Next up is getting the interior finished. Hurry up sunshine!!

[AoT]

Got the bus back today. The ball joints, tie rods and pitman bar were all replaced. The inner and outer wheel bearings were cleaned and repacked. The wheels were aligned and things tightened up in the front end in the steering box and suspension. Drove it home in the early start of the storm and even in the wind and sloppy mess there was a big difference in how it responded. There was alot more control in the bus and a lot less free play.

Got some advice on things that I need to correct to get a better performance. The center section of the manifold is for a auto stick and has lots of points for add-ons that could be causing some vacuum leaks. The dizzy is not right, and the carb is not a match for the engine. Need to so some research on these items. Got a lot of the safety issues done so now I will have to put some focus on performance.


This pic shows the add-ons on the stem of the manifold that needs to be changed.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Interesting Aud. I just had my outer tie rod done on the DS. Like you, I have TONS of side to side wander in my steering. I'm sure I have some worn parts that just haven't failed yet to attract my attention.
I'm hoping to put the bus together Monday. Then on to look into my wheels, tires, shocks and brakes. That might be a good time to pay some attention to the fixes you just addressed.
My brakes have a NASTY squeal, but there is still LOTS of material left on them. I think they're just crappy pads. Regardless, they need to be done. I can't stand the noise, and the loud squeal for however many hundred feet I may be on the brake for.

[Big_kid]

Aud- PROGRESS!

Mike- put some anti-squeal on the back of your pads & scuff up the rotors, so long as the pads are thick.

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Did it already Charlie!

Agreed though, glad to see this bus making so much progress. It'll be nice to have a new camping buddy!

[AoT]

Or how about the steering damper, I need to replace that. Bushing shot!!

Oh yeah want to enjoy all the comforts of home around the campfire!

[AoT]

As discussed the front window seal needed to be replaced and the laminate was separating so the window was getting discolored. Mike was generous to offer another window so at the St. Pat's Parade we switched out the front window. Mike had the seal already on the window and had put the rope in place to pull the seal through.

Cutting off the old seal.


Out with the old..


Window track is solid for the new seal.


Working in the new seal to hug the flange.


New window is great and nice and clear. Thanks to the gruppe for all the help and getting the job done.

[AoT]

Mike,

Bring the pick for the window. Took in some water today! Thanks.

AoT

[AoT]

It was brought to my attention that the carb on the bus is not the correct one. It was a loaner when the one that came with the bus would not idle. I have two PICT 34 (correct one) that were donated and I am in the process of switching them. I am trying to figure out what to do with the ports or nipples (yes, GR) that are on the replacement carbs. Some of the holes look like there were never opened and a few have brass ports.

I will need one for the SVA distributor when that gets installed and that one I covered with a rubber cap behind the spring on the left, but what is the best way to seal off the others? Is there any need for the other ones? The carb I was using has rubber hose with screws in the ends.

this is the replacement on the stand.


It was getting dark and cold but I was able to get it to crank but it would stall. I realized I had not attached the brake servo hose. Need to seal the ports and see if is getting enough fuel.

Need some warm sunshine!!

[Glenn]

The distributor hose connects to the nipple on the left side.

[AoT]

Got all the ports sealed and the servo hose back on. It turns over better than last night and will run if you feather the gas but then it cuts out when you're off the gas. Would not do that last night, it would start and then just cut out. Will try a little adjustment on the screws next time I'm out.

[Raj]

Was this carb cleaned, rebuilt or running ok recently that you know of? Or you just hoping for the best?

Sounds like its almost there. Hoping an adjustment will be the answer

[AoT]

Hope the forecast for Saturday is spot on. Sunny and near 60. Looking forward to getting back to my pending VW projects plus a major garage re-org. Have to get some plans going for the yard as well, since Sandy decapitated all of the trees and fencing. Good bye winter!!

[AoT]

Got a chance like most of us have been waiting for to work on the bus. The current issue is to get the correct carb running. Was not succesful in getting that done since I am trying to determine if there is an issue with the accel cable hanging up to make it rev high. Once it heads out off the carb and through the cable conduit thru the shroud it goes through a slice in the engine compartment seal and heads up to the front end. I checked with Bill and there should be some type of flex line there. Anyone have a P/N or name for this piece? The accel cable moves freely in the channel so it is not locking up there. In my research I also see that there is no spring under the gas pedal so that is another issue to see about.

GR stopped by on a ride and gave me some helpful hints. BTW, GR, I found a loose wire off the tranny that I think is the reverse light connection so I reconnected it Will Have to see if it was the problem.

I traced out the wires for the oil pressure light. With the ignition on I had power at both sides of the 12 fuse where the diagram says it should be connected. there is no light when I test it at the oil pressure switch. Can I run a direct line from the switch to the fuse to by pass the wiring harness? For those that have seen it the wires are a jumble. I think I am going to label and disconnect the connections to the fuse box and clean it up. Any suggestions on keeping this simple?

Hope y'all had some VW success today!!

[dubstar]

"Anyone have a P/N or name for this piece?"

accelerator bowden tube...protects the cable and prevents it from cutting into the transmission housing

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... =131721551

I think we cut down this one to fit my bus...

[AoT]

"Anyone have a P/N or name for this piece?"

accelerator bowden tube...protects the cable and prevents it from cutting into the transmission housing

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... =131721551

I think we cut down this one to fit my bus...

Thanks John. I did some research on the Samba about this last night and found this post since the part is no longer available for a bus, unless you use the bug one.

"Most hardware stores that have plumbing supplies sell a stiff milky white plastic tubing by the foot or short roll, it's similar to PEX but smaller diameter for icemakers, etc.. There's 2 sizes and I always get the wrong one when shopping by eyeball but one size is a perfect slip fit over the body tube and shroud guide (3/8" I think), it's slippery like Nylon and replaces the flex tube perfectly. Having the tube in place makes cable changes effortless as you just shove it in from the front and it magically emerges at the carb, no fishing around over the transmission."