'73/1500

[beetlejessica]

So we've now gotten enough $ together to begin seriously thinking about our engine. We've got a million questions about cases and cranks and stuff but before we get all wrapped up in that, I wanted to ask some questions about "rescuing" the engine we have.

Before the good compression test results, people's responses were that we needed to start over with a new build. Since the good compression suggests that the internals are okay, wouldn't it be smarter to pull the engine and see what we're dealing with before embarking on a new build? We could have anything from a cracked case to just a need for case savers and new 8mm studs.

Thing is, I get the feeling that installing case savers isn't a job for a first-timer with a hand tap but something for a machine shop. Am I right about that?

I guess what we're looking for is (assuming we can't do a repair ourselves), a sense of the cost of getting savers installed all around if we have to get our case machined combined any other things we should do once the engine is out and the heads are off combined with renting a car to haul the case to a machine shop and back vs. the cost of starting a new build. Anybody have any insight?

[Glenn]

You might consider buying a used engine and rebuild that. That way you can continue to drive the car and have a spare engine if the need arises.

What I would do it but a long block, rebuild that and then move the sheet metal, exhaust, carb/intake, exhaust, fuel pump and ignition from the old engine.Your "downtime" should be only 1 day.

You might also want to upgrade to a 1600DP which is what your car originally had. If you do that you'll need some new sheet metal (cheap) and intake (cheap) and carb.

[beetlejessica]

I like that idea a lot Glenn! Thanks!

If we lived in California we could throw a rock and probably hit a guy selling a used longblock. Any tips on where to look around here? I guess we could post in the "parts wanted" thread on this site?

[Raj]

I like that idea a lot Glenn! Thanks!
If we lived in California we could throw a rock and probably hit a guy selling a used longblock. Any tips on where to look around here? I ?

Jessica and Dan,
Luckily for you both, since your not in Cali... you have have the next best thing when in NY.... you have the DVG! I may have several ideas on motors I have that will work for you

a) pick a bare case that I have so you can have it sent out to get cleaned up if needed
b) pick a short block assembled or not
b) pick a long block that I have (2-4 currently available) and take it apart to rebuild or maybe even run it as is, and rebuild yours or
c) check out the long block ( with or with out tin) i just built for my 73 thing that wont be back on the road until summer so I dont really need it at the moment
d) turnkey 1641 i built last summer for the slammed 74 thing.

just some ideas..... pm me if interested.

[Glenn]

Jim Lynch has a complete running 1600DP for sale. Email him at jwlynch@msn.com if you want details.

[D-A-N]

Raj...PM sent.

Glenn...thanks for the tip....I emailed him.

[volksbugusa]

Buy a rebuilt long block from a reliable builder...

[D-A-N]

It's been a while since we've posted up in this thread but there's finally some progress to report. Yesterday, we pulled our old engine and started building up a longblock we bought off Raj. Here's some story and some pics for your enjoyment.

#1: Oil bath gone, tape for labeling engine compartment wires, beer, wire wheel to clean up DP cylinder tin for installation



#2: Me removing heater box cables, longblock in the background



#3: I guess sometimes you lower the engine but don't have the car jacked up enough for the engine to clear the car. Unfortunately no pics of the annoying struggle to get the engine off the jack so we could re-jack the car for the engine to clear it. That headlamp in the foreground comes in extremely handy under the car. Better a lot of the time than a cage light.



#4: Our compression is a bit on the high side (140) and in our correspondence with the PO, she told us after her rebuild the engine was spitting oil all over the engine compartment. The solution was to vent the valve covers but there's no breather box, just three hoses....the top one goes to the oil bath and the other two go to the valve covers.

Odd thing about this set up is that every 1,000 or so miles, our oil bath would get filled up with way too much oil and start spilling out the horn end so we'd have to drain it. I've read around a bit and can't say I've come across a 1500 rebuilt as a 1600 needing vented valve covers but I guess there's a first time for everything.



#5: Wasn't too thrilled to see this. The engine was only held in with 3 bolts!!! The top one on the driver's side was nowhere to be found. The logic was what? Why use 4 when you can use 3?

Also wondering what that white powder is in the hole where the lower driver's side bolt goes. It's not metallic...just white powder.



#6: Must remember in the future to remove thermostat before engine is on a cart resting on the heater boxes and related tin. Not fun. Have to tilt back engine, remove tin, then remove thermostat.



#7: There it is....out and stripped down. Don't know what's up with the sudden oil leak and didn't bother to check.



#8: Tin cleaned and painted



#9: Type 1 Hoover bit doesn't work with Type 3 oil cooler (this is a Type 3 case not tapped for OP sending unit near distributor). Luckily there's a guy on The Samba who makes/mods Hoover bits for just this sort of application.

See how ours won't clear the sending unit. Also, it's missing a part....the one that would wrap around the side. So I guess we only have half a Hoover bit.



#10: I've read horror stories about fitting after market exhausts but this one from Tri-Mil went on as easy as stock



#11: Not bad for a day's work



#12: Now we've got 2 engines and neither of them run just yet. Because of the Hoover bit and the missing engine bolt, we decided to leave the car out there for the week and get back to Brooklyn for other obligations today. I ordered the bit....now just have to find the bolt. Should be up and running by next weekend.

[Raj]

Glad to see you regained traction.


This last picture is classic!

[/quote]

[Glenn]

Nothing like spending hte day getting dirty.

Good job.

[D-A-N]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. It was a lot of fun. And I think it's the most work we've done without anyone getting cut, bruised, or gouged!

Quick question: We tore the rubber cap that covers the nipple on the upper right of the fan shroud. Is that a generic rubber cap I can get at Autozone or is it VW specific?

[Glenn]

This? Anything will work, you just need to plug it.

[D-A-N]

That's the one.

I figure some emissions hose w/ a bolt sealed into it might work but that rubber cap is more tidy and blends in better.

[Glenn]

That one is a VW part and the number is 030-133-335A

[D-A-N]

Thanks Glenn. I'll get hunting for one.

[Glenn]

It's not critical and most people have it missing. You can close it off with duct tape till you find something better.

[AoT]

#11: Not bad for a day's work

Wow, you got alot done and this looks great. It is always interesting to hear or see what the PO did to make something work. I have removed so many dead end wire connections on my bus never knowing what purpose they served. Look forward to seeing you get this on the road soon!

Where did you wind up finding garage space?

Audrey

[D-A-N]

Thanks Audrey.

Speaking of wire connections, we'd been having an issue with our lights flickering at idle and had tried tons of things to find the problem with no luck. When I went to take one of the wires off the alternator, it separated from the rest of the harness. It was being barely held on with a tiny piece of electrical tape. Problem found I think.

We always kind of had garage space at my grandmother's house in Bay Shore but it's shared with a cousin and it's not always practical to leave the car out there for a job that's going to take two weekends. This time everything worked out ok. Can't wait until this weekend to finish it all up! The parts are in the mail...

[Raj]

.......... Problem found I think.

nice find. Its always better to find these little issues when home, bc if they develop into something more, they can leave you stranded on the side of the road if you have no tools. Especially this electrical type.
My 65 had a cracked fuse block and it finally gave on the way home from litchfeild in the rain a year or so ago. I was lucky to have a few DVGers with me ( namely BusBQ) that helped me band aid the bad boy so I was able to get home. We ended up running a jumper wire form the ALT to the hot side of the coil. Ugly...yes..... but I got home in time for my first fathers day!

[Brown]

but I got home in time for my first fathers day!

As best you know!!!!

[D-A-N]

but I got home in time for my first fathers day!

As best you know!!!!

Hmmmmm Father's Day. 5 weeks and 2 days is a little early to declare anything but if our visit in 2wks to the OB/GYN goes well I'll be happy to report that I'll be celebrating Father's Day next June. Just don't tell Jessica I said anything....

[Raj]

Great to hear Dan! Awesome news!

[AoT]

Hmmmmm Father's Day. 5 weeks and 2 days is a little early to declare anything but if our visit in 2wks to the OB/GYN goes well I'll be happy to report that I'll be celebrating Father's Day next June. Just don't tell Jessica I said anything....

Wow, I hope you get happy news. This site is a great place to keep secrets!! NOT!
Good luck!

[beetlejessica]

Speaking of new members of the family and letting secrets slip out...we're now the proud owners of a 69 Squareback, which we're trying to get shipped from MN to Long Island. There's a shipping sticky on the Samba we're checking out, but does anybody have any experience with a shipping company they'd recommend?

[...because when you don't even have space to work on one VW, you might as well have two!]

[Raj]

More great news Jessica! A few people have had cars shipped in from out west so Im sure they will chime in. I'm looking forward to seeing pics of the new ride.