Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

Got back to the wonder last night. Two of the spots that I had painted last time had some crows feet showing so I sanded them down and reprimed. I think there was some residual moisture in those spots so that was the result. Was careful to let is dry out and then hit them again. Tonight I will sand them down and rehit it with the top coat.



Add another first to my car mechanic list. Did my first full oil change (I know you all can do this in your sleep!). There was about 1/4 inch of sludge on the plate so everything got cleaned off and put back. Was careful not to tighten the nuts too tight.









I'm curious and I'm sure one of my dubheads can answer this..why are the washers that go under the nuts and bolt for the oil drain plate copper?

Want to get this section finished and then get the front hood and latch cleaned up and done.

The copper allows the washer to ' crush' forming a better seal. The washer is more of a gasket then it it is a to displace the impact of the nut.

You will notice that the old school ' oil change kits' include not only the gaskets for above abd below the strainer, but 6 small and on larger washer, all of which ' should' be replaced each oil change.

No secret message like Manny got.

Raj wrote:The copper allows the washer to ' crush' forming a better seal. The washer is more of a gasket then it it is a to displace the impact of the nut.

You will notice that the old school ' oil change kits' include not only the gaskets for above abd below the strainer, but 6 small and on larger washer, all of which ' should' be replaced each oil change.

Gotcha!

The copper and paper gaskets were all replaced with new, will get the strainer replaced next go round.
Is there something to add or do to minimize the sludge that was on the plate when I dropped it down? The oil did not flll gritty or have sediment in it so I don't know if this is an issue or just need to change it more often.

When was the last change? This is a used motor that wasnt split open right?

Raj wrote:When was the last change? This is a used motor that wasnt split open right?

It is used and don't know about it being split. Is there a way to tell if that did happen? What significane would that have? FMI ( for my information!)

I read on TheSamba some people use Marval Mystery Oil in thier engines 1 pint added in with the oil to help clean up the engine crankcase and 4 oz to a 10 gallons of gas.

Anyone here have any experience with using it?

I'm 99.9% sure that we did do an oil change when the engine was first installed.

Unless somehow we forgot

Oil should be changed 3 month or 3k miles. My vw's hit the 3 month mark first, and am only religiously changing oil on certain cars / motors. I asked about the motor being ' split' bc I forget the history of the motor. If it was taken apart, cleaned and tightened up before you installed it, I would not expect this sludge. If its an old motor and we have no idea of the insides.....it could be shitty in there, and you driving it now is loosening up the crap. You never know. Just change the oil more frequently, and lets monitor the sludge.

Maybe give Kens' idea a try.

Keep up the good work!

OMG ! we found the PG version in Audry's car.

Glenn wrote:I'm 99.9% sure that we did do an oil change when the engine was first installed.

Unless somehow we forgot

Didn't Tony do it when AoT brought it in for the final seal of aproval ?

mannys66 wrote:OMG ! we found the PG version in Audry's car.

Too funny Manny.

mannys66 wrote:

Glenn wrote:I'm 99.9% sure that we did do an oil change when the engine was first installed.

Unless somehow we forgot

Didn't Tony do it when AoT brought it in for the final seal of aproval ?

I sure shit hope so.

mannys66 wrote:

Glenn wrote:I'm 99.9% sure that we did do an oil change when the engine was first installed.

Unless somehow we forgot

Didn't Tony do it when AoT brought it in for the final seal of aproval ?

He didn't fix the fuel leak, poor idle or the loose axle. Had to have been the oil change.

mannys66 wrote:OMG ! we found the PG version in Audry's car.

Start a trend for 2 generations from now! We could leave cryptic messages to screw with their heads!

GA:

If I bring that rear hood latch that was held on with screws can you weld it on at the tech session? Do I need to remove the paint from the two sides that will be making contact?

Aot?

AoT wrote:GA:

If I bring that rear hood latch that was held on with screws can you weld it on at the tech session? Do I need to remove the paint from the two sides that will be making contact?

Aot?

Uhh. I'd rather do it here for a couple of reasons. First I wouldn't use flux core on the wonder. Second I wouldn't want to play around on you car with a machine I'm not familiar with. We'll get it done before that. Once the roads clear up from this weekends snow. Call me next week.

Well after six weeks, the four wheels of the wonder are back on the ground. Finished up the painting on the the rear apron to hold me over for a while.



Was all set to take it out for a spin and see how all the new fiddlings were working and that didn;t happen.
I gave the new gas pedal a push as is the usual routine and the engine turned over fine but after a few secs it started to chug so I gave it some gas and it then stalled. All succeeding attempts did not get the engine to run. It turns over and cranks but does not catch and it sounds like it needs gas or is it getting too much. It smells like gas back at the engine. Now I replaced the accelerator cable as well as the fuel pedal over the past few weeks. This is the position on the cam/throttle when the gas pedal has been depressed.



Do I need to adjust the accel cable or due to the long down time and cold do I need to put some fuel in the carb since the line to the fuel pump was disconnected when we dropped the engine? With this real cold weather I did not want to drain the battery since it hasn't been charging.

Bah humbug!!

Check to make sure the choke isn't stuck closed.

can you manually turn the cam the other way and try to restart. Agree that is a choke issue.

AOT " This is the position on the cam/throttle when the gas pedal has been depressed"

Do you mean this is what it looks like when the peddle is all the way to the floor or this is what it sets back too after you depress the accelerator peddle when the car is cold?

If the later, you need to loosen the three screws on the choke and rotate it clockwise so that the choke plat just closes, then retighten the screws.

Try operating the throttle on the carburator whil you look into the top to see if any gas is squirting down the carb throat. That will tell you if you have gas in the carburator.

Brown wrote:AOT " This is the position on the cam/throttle when the gas pedal has been depressed"

Do you mean this is what it looks like when the peddle is all the way to the floor or this is what it sets back too after you depress the accelerator peddle when the car is cold?

If the later, you need to loosen the three screws on the choke and rotate it clockwise so that the choke plat just closes, then retighten the screws.

Try operating the throttle on the carburator whil you look into the top to see if any gas is squirting down the carb throat. That will tell you if you have gas in the carburator.

It is the later, the position after the accel pedal has been pushed down and the car is cold. I'll will do that tomorrow.
I was out for the afternoon and when I got back I gave it another try. I did not give it any gas and turned the key and it caught on the second try. Lots of crap out the pipes but it went thru its warm up. Let it run for a while and then took it around the block. Stalled once but got it going, it seems to be idling fast so will need to check the choke.

Another issue has presented itself, the Alt/Gen light is solid even after a warm up. What is that indicating? THe two connections on the top were put back on after the engine restall.

Good news:
The accel pedal is so much better than the roller, it doesn;t have as much play and accelerating is more even.
Clutch pedal seems to be set good after some adjusting and getting the right length.
There is heat coming from under the rear seats so the heater boxes are working!!

Thanks guys!!

The Alt/gen light indicates your not charging your battery.

Tom wrote:The Alt/gen light indicates your not charging your battery.

agreed, but it it was working before you yanked the motor its likely you missed something upon reinstall. Can you double check the wires?

Audrey,

The car has a AL78 alternator which has a solid state regulator under the back seat. There's a 3 connector plug and 2 wires that connect to the single post. Make sure that the connector is fully seated and that both wires are on the post and the nut is tight.