Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

It seems to be running ok, though i have never driven another bus for comparison. I am doing a compression test this weekend. The motor is not the original. I have a reciept from the PO that says "2L long block" as one item line, thats it. That was I think in the year 2000. So I am kinda curious of what was put in there. It is fuel injected. 79 bus. I assume orig transmission.

I want to do the rear shifter bushings and nose cone so I will also drop the trans. I will also check the fuel tank condition, replace sender, fuel filler neck, replace any fuel lines back there I havent gotten to.

any other peripheral items that I should check/do while the lump is out?

Also, do you recommend I get a book or dvd for the job? I have seen some specifically dedicated to engine removal. Or will bently muir and common sense be enough? I may be able to grab a buddy that has experience with these vehicles but not counting on it.

as for the engine itself, I can take it down to the cylinders and check the heads but if the compression is ok I will prob leave the rings alone. Should i just get the heads rebuilt while it is out anyway?

Aiming to start weekend of april 19th.

Thanks for any advice, tips, comments.

I cant speak directly too a 2.0 Fuelie, as Im a t1 guy.... but sounds like your on the right path. If the money permits and you plan on keep it, suggest you start putting a list together of consumable items and rubber goods as they tend to rip over time. Replace / clean as you go, and look for anything that is suspect. Also, depending on how soon you need this back together ( is it your drivers, are you doing this in the street, do you have diapers in the house to change etc) should be able to guide you as you make your 'to do ' list
Keep us posted!

I can daily commute on my motorcycle while the bus is down, I have a driveway and garage though the bus wont go in the garage. No baby, medium budget- basically I can afford to outsource headwork but will do most other stuff myself.

I guess this means I should make the wed meeting while i still have a runner!

I installed a new motor 2 years ago and I can tell you from experience that it's easier to pull the motor and tranny as 1 unit, just make sure you mark all the wiring and you'll be fine.

oh cool, never thought about that.

Ok, still planning on the pulling the engine/trans tomorrow so I just did a compression test. I got:

1= 150
2= 130
3= 115
4= 145

thats psi. I didnt even think the numbers would get that high based on Bently. I'm skeptical i did something wrong, i dont know, gas pedal all the way down and did about 10 pulses. If nothing else it can be used as a point of comparison to indicate something may be up with #3.

The plugs look pretty good, sorta tan, maybe a touch lean. But there was oil on the plug -wire ends.

I'd adjust the valves and do it again.

Is your bus equipped with hydraulic lifters? Or solid lifters?
The one "low" cylinder - though not really low, may be just the valves or a leaky lifter. My bus does the same thing. You can actually hear it when the bus is ice cold. After two minutes it's all good.
My engine had a low cylinder too. Not the end of the world. Don't go tearing into it if it's not broken!
Get the fuel line kit from Scott at GermanSupply. The hose fits right. Not like the larger barricade line (see the fuel line thread on TS) it also comes with a new FI filter. But, don't use the supplied clamps. Glenn has a good website for the ABA style clamps which are much better to use.
Do the fuel lines, and replace the vent hoses on the tank while it's out. Also, do the fuel filler neck while the engine is out. You'll need to sit in the engine bay with your left arm in the pie plate and your right hand in the hole where the ECU mounts to do it the "easy" way.
Also, the hardest vent line to reach is the sucker behind the spare tire well. Knock that one out while your engine is down.
If your doing vent lines you might want to redo your charcoal canister, nix that pesky fuel odor.
You should also check to make sure the rubber line that comes into the engine compartment, from the underside of the bus is through the right hole. It should have a rubber grommet to prevent chaffing or the vibration of the bus cutting the hose on sharp metal.
While your under the bus, your bus NEEDS a clutch cable - grease the arm in the pedal assembly and the trans. It shouldn't feel that dry, or have as much resistance when pushing it down.
And, check the idle/timing. That puppy was racing!

mine is hydraulic lifters, Im assuming since it was a replacement engine for a 79.

you know mike i took it for a spin this morning to the supermarket and it was idling low. the hight idle is an intermittant problem that im not not really sure what the cause is.

but anyway will go thru your list when i have the engine out, and try to chase a leak. this past weekend i took the bus to Philly and went thru about a quart in the 200 mile round trip. There were oil droplets on teh rear of the bus even after the houlihans visit 2 weeks ago.

I wouldn't get in too much of a lather about a couple of droplets of oil when you are parked.

X 2 on adjusting the valves, even though they are hydraulic they still require adjustment, just not that often.

Markus wrote:mine is hydraulic lifters, Im assuming since it was a replacement engine for a 79

With the age of these busses, assume nothing. I have a '77 with a '79 engine in it.

Few drops of oil really is nothing to worry about.

Valves before anything. Of course, you sound like there's other things you want to do with the engine out (though, they can be done with the engine in - and a degree of contortionism)
If the engine is healthy I'm not sure why you'd start opening Pandora's box. 115 isn't low.
I second Rob's comment. My 77 has a 78 engine in it.

My '73 bay will have a '78 motor in a few weeks (dependant on the B/O exhaust)

Its all out. Took about 7 hours total. it took me about an hour just to clean and get out the 12 bolts that hold the CV joints on. Also very time consuming was the clutch cable wingnut which was basically fused onto the cable end. I was very close to just cutting it. Its getting replaced anyway. The flapper valve to the heat exchangers were difficult to break free as well without getting asbestos in my face. And just general trial and error with getting the jacks placed properly took time. I suspect if i did it again I could get it down to 5 hours.

fuel line kit and various other parts have been ordered. The german supply place seems to take a while. Bus depot is pretty quick.

Does anyone know what happened to the "upload attachment" button for pictures?

Good work. Those CV's can be a pain after years and years or grime and filth inside the bolt. I use a pick or very thin flat head to carefully clean it all out. Then some heat... and BFH to set it in good. Sometime I still end up using a vice grip on at least one.

PS... I still see the upload pic button below in a different 'tab.'

I saw pics that it's out, nice.
BusDepot sells good stuff. But Scott's kits over at German Supply come with everything labled and ready to go on.
He also sends a great "map" based on your buses year and engine so you know what line goes where, and through what hole in the body. He's slow to respond if you email him. Pick up the phone and it's a much faster experience.
If you're going with the BD set, again just get the good clamps. Glenn gave me a website (I forget what it was, else I would pass it on) that stocks all the correct size ABA "Mercedes Style clamps" - as people call them over on TS.
They squeeze the whole hose, and don't have the sharp edges or perforations which can cut through the rubber.
You might want to pick up some. Purple Power cleaner (Home Depot - $10) it's MUCH stronger than Simple Green. Put some in a metal pan (hubcaps work well too) and soak the hardware for the axles.
Mine were so greasy, that we didn't get them to lock in good the first go around - right AoT?

yea i usually use simple green but can easily get that purple stuff. i have seen it around.

I ordered the german supply fuel hose kit for my year. email says the order was completed april 9th, so i will wait.

this week i will try to get the gas tank out and do sender and filler neck, do fuel lines if i get them and seperate the engine and transmission.

I was dismayed to find my engine does not have a thermostat, bracket or cable and probably never did since it was installed in 2000.

I have no problem getting a new thermostat ($99) but a $40 bracket? Ugh. Theres nothing on the samba either.

I still dont understand why so many of these have the thermo missing or people actually take them off?

Progress report:

fuel tank out. The inside is immaculate. Replaced the sender, o ring and filler neck. Ordered the 2 1/4 " little connector piece from NAPA as per Ratwells advice, cleaned out tank compartment, no real rust to speak of.

as for vent lines, can i just use regular 7mmfuel line cant find that braided stuff.

also got intake manifold, injectors off. spent about 1.5 hours getting tins off as there were 2 stripped and siezed screws and i have very primitive extraction tools. I also found a spark plug socket with small extension sitting on the 3/4 cyls. Free tools!

Next is get the rockers and push rods out to verify whether or not I actually have hydraulic lifters. If I dont, it could very well explain my low compression as I have never adjusted the valves and not even sure if the PO did.

Some pics-



Bus had a ton of mud wasp nests

Is that the original motor ?, I ask because you very rarely see the EGR connected, most that I have seen are blocked off.

It is NOT. I have a reciept for work from the PPO that says "2L long block replaced" or something like that. In 2000.

Do I need to buy a block off kit or can i rig something?

As long as there isn't a problem with it I'd leave it be, there is a school of thought that the cylinder head temps are lower with the EGR in place.

i took a closer look, the egr tube is attached to the throttle body and the engine tin as seen in the pic but there is nothing under the tin- no actual egr filter canister. it looks like the line from the exhaust pipe was cut and crimped but the throttle body side is still open.

Mine was the same. I used a piece of aluminum flat stock, drilled holes and blocked off the EGR altogether. I did the same with the take off on the muffler.