Will check on it. Seems to be a recurring loose connection, just need to take the lens off to reset the bulb. I'll put one of the inside housing units on my parts list along with those retainer clips.
Wanted to resolve some of the issues that i have with the gas line bubbling (possibly hot in the engine comp) and not easy to get a quick restart and noticeable sediment in the gas filter so I decided to move the filter back under the bug and clean out the fuel line.
After getting the gas level down I disconnected all the lines in the engine comp back to the end of the hard line. SHot in some cleaner and gave it a few good doses with the air compressor and got a lot of gunk out. Siphoned out the tank and even had sediment in that batch. Disconnected the lines and removed the fuel tank and went and got the POR tank sealer kit. Went thru the cleaner process about 4 times until the to marine clean was clear. tomorrow will get is sealed and let it set.
Got the fuel lines reconnected back to the hard line and got the wires cleaned up. Just need to get the tank back in and gas it up. Long process but hopefully worth the effort.
Got the gas tank sealed during the week and ordered a screen and gasket to install since the setup wasn't on the wonder. So while waiting for the parts got the space cleanned up a bit.
Washed and painted the exterior of the tank
Used the time to wire wheel the spare tire well since there's alot of rust. Even though the drain holes are open the way the metal slopes on one of the holes it doesn't let the water flow out. Cleaned up the rim of the gas tank opening and gave both a paint.
White waiting for paint to dry got the new vent window seals put on. The new rubber makes them tight to close but they look better. One side needs a little tweaking to get the seal hold tighter.
Finished up cleaning and painting under the tank. After some detours and stupid stuff got the tank back in. Made sure all the hose connections were tight, added some gas and the true test came when I cranked the engine. (Had the fire ext ready just to be safe.) It turned on the first crank. Sounded sweet. Let it run for a few and then took it out to get more gas. Ran like a champ but noticed that the gas gauge has not reappeared from the side to show the level.
Got home and turned the car off. Reseated the sender connection and tried again. Guess what?? Nothing!! The quick no start is still happens.
Tried about 20 mins and then 40 mins, still nothing but after 2 hours it fired up and it was back on the road. Know what I need to do about this.
As far as the sender/gauge. Have the 4 plastic washers and the one copper one on. Cleaned up the copper one. The screws were tricky to line up to get them to grab the holes. does the copper washer need to be in a specific position? The tank is painted under the sender but it was that way before I just painted it. The gauge was working fine since I just tightened up the connection back at the speedometer.
Any ideas on what needs to be done to get the gauge working?
I recall you saying that you put the gasket between the body and tank. My guess is the tank is no longer grounded. Clean the paint off at one of the tank to body clamps and see if that helps.
Try grounding the wire to see if the gauge moves. if it does the problem is with the sender. It's possible that the paint is insulating the ground.
As to the starter... does it click or do you get nothing? You can try connecting a second wire to the terminal on the starter and running the wire through the batter grommet and under the rear seat. Then when it won't start you touch the wire to the positive terminal on the battery. This bypasses the ignition switch and simulates a "hot start" relay. If that works all the time then install a relay and move on to the next project.
Glenn A wrote:I recall you saying that you put the gasket between the body and tank. My guess is the tank is no longer grounded. Clean the paint off at one of the tank to body clamps and see if that helps.
Wire brushed it down to the bare metal under one clamp and then did a second one....
But it didn't solve the prob. Gauge still not registering. Should I take the foam gasket out from under the tank? I did put a coat of paint under this area so might not make a difference.
Trying to be proactive and create a another issue!!
Issues with the sender/gas gauge to be continued. Want to replace the shift rod bushing and rear coupler this weekend so I opened the rear cover to see what going on. Noticed no safety wire on the square nut so will be sure to take care of that.
Got all the bolts disconnected upfront and the rear coupler disengaged. Used needle nose pliers to advance the rod out the front which was not bad. After a few phone calls to Mike and GR had no prob getting the bushing greased and back on. After a few maddening attempts got the shift rod back in the support hanger. Starting working the rod back to the rear with the needle nose and was making good progress. When I saw the front of the shift rod I went back to see how it was lining up with the rear coupler and thats when the good times ended. The shift rod is under some hard lines just inside the rear inspection hole and the rod cannot be raised up to catch the other end towards the tranny.
I have tried to advance the rod as i was before to clear the lines and reseat the rod but it won't budge. The end of the rod moves but is not free of the hard lines that are back there. this was an auto stick at one time so not sure if there are extra lines running in the tunnel since this doesn't seem a common issue from other posts I've read.
If anyone has a suggestion or a tool that might move this along please give a holler. An extra pairs of hands is probably needed!! An a cold beer!
