Glenn A wrote:I'm sure you know where the scrap yard is Ken if you heat it anywhere thats where it will bend under stress.
Lets talk wednesday i feel another lesson from the master!!!
I fixed my quote up a bit Ken. Not sure If youre aware of the following. A sway bar is treated to a certain hardness just like a coil or leaf spring. If you heat any section of it it will loose its spring effect in that section. there is a tremendous amout of stess on a sway bar. It will more than likely bend or snap at the weld. All kidding aside I would bother with a sway bar.
I'm sorry i missunderstood. I thought you were telling me to heat it up and then re-bend it to fit. i didn't think you could weld it. I guess my two options are to buy a shortened on or go without.
i'll drive it for a while and see how i like it.
I actually want to drop the back one spline, how long should that take me to do? Do me a favor though and don't tell Tom what i'm doing!!
After i put the new beam in the brake fluid reservoir lines into the master cylinder were leaking bad. Master was 6 months old from MAM. I pull the rubber plugs out of the donor car MC and installed them yesterday and fixed the problem.
I will never buy another brake related thing from Mid America ....
Well my drop spindles arrived in the mail yesterday so hopefully this weekend, weather permitting i'll install them. After that the next step will be to drop the a$$ down a bit. I figure if i can get it low enough i can scrape some of the rust off the bottom.
Also last night when i got inthe car to go to the meeting the oil prerssure light would not go out. Never had that happen but i was not too concerned since the oil pressre guage was showing i had oil pressure. I checked all the wire to see if anything had fallen off but everything was in place. I wiggled the connections a bit and bingo the light went off, so i have to clean the connections when i get a chance.
While i was underther though i noticed a blue wire with red maekings was not connected. the brass femal connected was braken, but i could noit find out where it went to. I also fround a brown wire that comes up through the body from thick wire bundle near the door post that was in a plastic connector with no wir3e attached so i wnder if the rough wire came from there. I'll ahve to check around to see what is not working and see if i can figure this out. My horn has not worked since i but the new beam in but i think that is due to the missing ground strack ont he steering colum.
Brown wrote:Also last night when i got inthe car to go to the meeting the oil prerssure light would not go out. Never had that happen but i was not too concerned since the oil pressre guage was showing i had oil pressure. I checked all the wire to see if anything had fallen off but everything was in place. I wiggled the connections a bit and bingo the light went off, so i have to clean the connections when i get a chance..
The oil pressure switch works by grounding which turns on the light. If you went out by wiggling it you could of just broken the wire in the insulation. I'd replace the sender, the spring might be shot.
The oil sender is new. i repqalced the old sender when i got the new oil pressure guage and installed a dual sender!!
i'm going to go through all the wiring in the trunk to see if i can figure out where the broken connector goes so I will check to see if the oil sening unit wire is cut.
Installed new drop spindles. The spindles did not have holes for the back plates so i left them off. Do they make a back plate for this style spindle?
The other issue i had was after the rims were installed they were rubbing against the brake caliper. The passenger side was rubbing quite a bit so i installed some spacers between the caliper and the spindle. That took care of the rub on the driver side but i had to grind down a little bit of the passenger side rim to get that one to fit.
I didn't get a picture of it yet because i just finished it up and it was pretty dark. I did move it out of the driveway to move it over and it scrapped pretty good. I still want to play with the front a little bit maybe bring the adjustable beam up a little bit and then drop the back of it.
Why would you put backing plates on disk brake spindles? Those two holes are for calipers. Looks like you bought the wrong ones. Those cast spindles are are pretty nice compared to the old cut and welded ones.
Glenn A wrote:Why would you put backing plates on disk brake spindles? Those two holes are for calipers. Looks like you bought the wrong ones. Those cast spindles are are pretty nice compared to the old cut and welded ones.
Like Glenn said the old disk brake spindle had the backing plates but when i checked the Samba seemed like alot of people jsut left them off. Why do you say it looks like of bought the worng ones, what do you see?
Back out to the car tonight and realized the lower ball joint ont he driver side was scraping against the inside of the rim so i raised the adjustable beam up a little bit which straightend out the ball joint so it is not scraping. It is still very close to the rim and i think it will hit if i go over a bumb, but i will drive it and see. Here are some pcitures before and after the drop spindles were added.
