BEN GRIMM 73' WESTY

[ObnoxiousBlue]

Karl is good people...

[SUMTHING]

so...it's been a while...I've been slowly working on the bus...
I went through the electrical, slapped a battery in, and...
made sure I had all checked off the list, head lights low and high beams, parking (markers) signals and hazards wipers, interior dome lights (both), dash lights (gauges and heat/air controls), rear defrost, and the radio all now working

mocked up the carb


starter wouldn't work, so I took the solenoid apart, cleaned and greased it and put it back together...working good now

silght hicup...picked up a new (used) heat exchanger flange is nice

"U" afterburner pipe flange...not so nice

leaving a concave shape that leave a nice gap for the exhause to leak..

If I replace the U pipe, I will have to replace the "F" pipe manifold also...so I'm having a local metal guy make me a new flange, however I need someone with a portable welder, and the skill for a possible tech session in Selden.
once this is done, I'm waiting for an exhaust I orderd and I can install the engine and see if I get this bus to move under its own power...
Anybody have a little time and equipment?

[Raj]

Great work Dave. Its coming along nicely.

[SUMTHING]

Thanks Radj,
I know you have the tools and the skills....but no time right?
I'd like to get this done, then the engine can be installed and see if I can get her running ...anyone?

[Raj]

I know you have the tools and the skills....but no time right?

bingo! Im up to my eye balls in work, home renovation, and dirty diapers. Sorry bud.

[SUMTHING]

been there, done that got a t-shirt...
my oldest is graduating in two weeks...

[Tom]

Looks great Dave ! 2 thoughts, why not go to advanced auto and see if you can order both parts and be done with it ? Second, there's a guy a Craigslist with a welding truck that comes to you, maybe feel him out to do the job.

[SUMTHING]

Thanks Tom for the ideas...honestly...I want to get this engine installed without investing a lot of money...then if it turns out to be a good solid runner, I can go back and replace items if needed...
here is a shot of the new 1/4" flange

Now I just need someone who can spare an hour or two...
(Tom, I'll check the guy on craigslist...if no one answers the call for help, thanks.)

[VwJay]

You could always bring the parts to a shop to be welded. You tend to get a cleaner job if it can be welded on a stand/jig/table. But a good guy can make due anywhere. I'd offer my services but I haven't done any major welding in a while. Hate for it to come out ugly.

[SUMTHING]

Thanks Jay!
What I'm welding the flange too (U" Pipe), is attached to the motor, the motor is out of the bus (as you know)
but It's not going anywhere and will have to be welded onsite (Selden)

[BusBq Bill]

Looking good, hope to see it rolling soon. Is that Stainless hardware your using on the exhaust? Stainless doesn't do well with thermal expansion and heat of exhaust. Really important not to use stainless on header/exhaust manifold to head studs and nuts or you'll have a nightmare later. Just my recommendation.

[Raj]

Looking good, hope to see it rolling soon. Is that Stainless hardware your using on the exhaust? Stainless doesn't do well with thermal expansion and heat of exhaust. Really important not to use stainless on header/exhaust manifold to head studs and nuts or you'll have a nightmare later. Just my recommendation.

This is interesting. I would think the a SS Nut would be helpful for later as it would not rust up. Your thoughts Bill?

[Glenn]

First off there are many different grades of stainless.

I once had a complete stainless system on my Passat including the hardware. After 9 years I had to replace the muffler, under warranty, and the stainless clamps came right apart and were reused.

I never use stainless on the exhaust flanges. It tends to gaul and lock on. I only use the copper M8 nuts with the 12mm wrench.

[VwJay]

Stainless steel doesn't react to high temperatures as well as mild steel or copper. In some cases depending on the grade of metal the heat can cause the SS to become very brittle and ends up galling and snapping the stud. Also through thermal expansion and contraction SS nuts have been known to loosen themselves in environments such as head studs and header/muffler flanges. I myself had yet to have a problem with them. But that is some of the associated risk. Also ARP makes a SS stud kit for Air cooled Porsches so it's anybody's guess.

[SUMTHING]

BILL,
Nope, just Zinc coated steel, but good to know!
Glenn,
What's the benefit of copper the displacement of heat??

[BusBq Bill]

Good explanation jay. And yes arp stainless studs are excellent, from what I understand they are a special alloy engineered by arp made specifically for exhausts. They make them for lots of cars. Copper clad nuts are steel nuts coated with copper to prevent corrosion. The characteristics of steel without the rust of steel. Sometime they are brass

[Tom]

Do you have any of the original FI stuff ?

[EDNCAROL]

Dave any luck getting that flange welded ?

[SUMTHING]

Nope...just this evening I cold welded it with something similar to JB weld but for high heat. I old school flat filed the old flange so the old flange sits nice and flush to the new...it's setting overnight and tomorrow I have a bunch of stuff to finish, like a new TO bearing, install the intake manifold (leaving the carb off for hight clearance) and I'm going to install the engine, hook it up, drop some gas in the tank, and have Gaby crank it, while I try to bring it to a rumble (exhaust is on B/O) see if I get lucky..I took quite a bit for granted..I didn't bench test the coil, distributor, or the altinator...wish me luck...

[AoT]

Hope you get some good luck!

[Raj]

Way to go Dave. Hope to hear good news from you soon!

[SUMTHING]

Well ...engine is in....everything attached, mounts, coil, carb...ect


no go....just to see if i could get some life I accached the elec fuel pump to the positive side of the coil,
so when the key is turned the pump should start to pump....I had Gaby turn the key to the on position....and I didn't hear anything. I pulled the fuel line off the carb and confirmed no fuel...dont know my next move except to get another fuel pump...any sugestions?

[Raj]

Did you confirm power to the coil?
.....Fuel to the pump?

[SUMTHING]

fuel to the pump..yes
power to the coil...no
I decided to pack things up and give it a fresh look.
even though the wiring is very basic, I cant read the diagram (because i don't know how)
but confirm if I'm wrong, power to the coil comes via ignition switch, so I'm looking for a wire that goes hot w/ the key in the on position and that goes to the +(15) side ofthe coil....

thats Simba wanting to help figure out the wiring issue

[SUMTHING]

The great thing about ACVW's is there aren't too many wires...

You can see on the coil I have the elec ignition red on the pos side of the coil along w/ the fuel pump (also red)( In my hand i have a seperate small harness coming from the front of the bus(yet to be traced) The black I assumed was from the ignition (to the coil) andthe others were for warning lights on the dash. Besides the fact that it was the only wire that could reach the location of the coil and other possible sensors.
I turnerd the key in the on position and I don't see any power on the black wire...
sugestions??