BEN GRIMM 73' WESTY

[SUMTHING]

Hi everyone !!
Well with spring around the corner, I want to remedy a issue I have had since the long block has been replaced and that is changing the carb. The progressive carb I currently have on the 1978 - 2.0l just isn't doing this nice newly rebuilt bus justice.
I'll open it up to suggestions ...
Thoughts ?

[Glenn]

Dual 44 IDFs.

A proven combo.

$800
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6414.htm

[Tom]

How hard are those carbs to sync and do they require constant adjustment ?

[Glenn]

I've had dual carbs since 1980... once sync'ed they shouldn't need to be touched for many miles.

[EDNCAROL]

EFI

[MrBreeze]

I've had dual carbs since 1980... once sync'ed they shouldn't need to be touched for many miles.

Many miles? How would you know?


I still say a correctly set up EFI is what was supposed to be on these, so put it back on

[Glenn]

I still say a correctly set up EFI is what was supposed to be on these, so put it back on

"Back on" implies you have everything and it all works.

Hey Tom, hows the EFI working on your Bus?

[Tom]

I still say a correctly set up EFI is what was supposed to be on these, so put it back on

"Back on" implies you have everything and it all works.

Hey Tom, hows the EFI working on your Bus?

Wouldn't know, still on the Weber ...

[ObnoxiousBlue]

I love my fuel injection!

[B MAN]

buses came with EFI or u guys converted?

[Glenn]

73 and up were FI.

[SUMTHING]

Slightly disagree.. on the bay window
73 was a 1700cc (just shy of 1700 but they called it 1700cc) pancake style, but it was orig twin carbs (solex)
I think 74 was also twin carb (not EFI) and I think it was split1800cc / 2000 cc
75-79 and up were EFI and 2L...

[Glenn]

I stand corrected...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/man ... bus/69.jpg

[Tom]

The good old days when 91 octane was regular .

[SUMTHING]

CANDY !! ( like putting a dress on a pig ) but sure is nice ...

[Tom]

But how does it run ? Is there a big difference ?

[SUMTHING]

In the old days I would have bought a rebuilt kit for the weber progressive $35, rebuild it, put it back on and then sit there and adjust and fool with it till I got it running right. I had it running ok before it moved to the rebuilt engine then I had some small issues that I was able to deal with, and I did for a season, but this is a brand new engine and I didn't get it for it to not run perfect. I have no gripe with the progressive, i think its a good inexpensive solution. The carb cost me $150 and does its job when adjusted correctly. The IDF 40's, Yes it's a big difference, I mean power, smoothness, nice idle cold or hot, and the verdict isn't in yet on fuel economy, I've only had it for a few days and I've been jumping on it a little so my first fill up I am getting 14.5 mpg, which I thought was pretty good.
I can't wait to get on the open road and do some Cruzin and camping this season

[Glenn]

The Progressive is a dog. Even when they are tuned as best as possible they are dogs.

Dave, you did the right thing.

[SUMTHING]

Well, it happened.....brand new rebuilt block, bought last march, now with 4K miles on it... I dropped a cylinder.

Checked all the wiring and nope runs deeper than that, so I took it in, and looks like on one of the heads, the rocker arm assembly by cyl#1- 4 studs that hold the assy in place, 1 was ripped out, one snapped, one backed out and (1 forget about the 4th) but anyway it was enough to lose the cyl, but looks like no damage to the push-rods or valves (don't know how, but ok) so as per Tony he said he'll get new studs and put them in and I'll be right as rain. keeping my fingers crossed. he has been in contact with the re-builder out in CA. and even though I'm out of warentee by a month, they sent him the studs and I'm hoping even though Labor isn't covered, they do something due to the mysterious studs on a rebuild head w/ 4K.
Funny too, I said to Tony, it was just in a month or so ago @3K to check the valve adjustment on the break in of a new motor. so it just happened in the last 1000 miles,

Ideas??

stuck valve, bad assembly....

[SUMTHING]

Well, it happened.....brand new rebuilt block, bought last march, now with 4K miles on it... I dropped a cylinder.

Checked all the wiring and nope runs deeper than that, so I took it in, and looks like on one of the heads, the rocker arm assembly by cyl#1- 4 studs that hold the assy in place, 1 was ripped out, one snapped, one backed out and (1 forget about the 4th) but anyway it was enough to lose the cyl, but looks like no damage to the push-rods or valves (don't know how, but ok) so as per Tony he said he'll get new studs and put them in and I'll be right as rain. keeping my fingers crossed. he has been in contact with the re-builder out in CA. and even though I'm out of warentee by a month, they sent him the studs and I'm hoping even though Labor isn't covered, they do something due to the mysterious studs on a rebuild head w/ 4K.
Funny too, I said to Tony, it was just in a month or so ago @3K to check the valve adjustment on the break in of a new motor. so it just happened in the last 1000 miles,

Ideas??

stuck valve, bad assembly....

[Glenn]

Sounds like poor assembly.

When it comes to Type 4 heads, Mike seems to be the most educated on what's out there.

It could be the fault of the manufacturer if they put the rocker arms on the heads. Or it could be the place you bought the engine from.

Did the shop take the heads out of a box and slap them on or did they carefully inspect them and ensure they were put together correctly. I've seen heads, fresh out of the box, with the valve keepers not fully seated in the retainers.

There's a HUGE difference between a engine builder and a engine assembler. A builder know what combos work and what doesn't. A builder inspects, blueprints and ensures the quality of the parts they use. A assembler take the parts out of a box, slaps them on and put the engine in a box for shipping.

"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Sorry about your problem Dave. I understand being on a budget, but sometimes the cheapest is not really the cheapest.

Sounds like Tony/Wayne can heli coil the head and get you back on the road.

[SUMTHING]

It's wasn't so cheap! just couldn't justify spending double...sorry I cant spend $7500-10K on a new engine, wasn't aware that Bus DEPOT uses AVP's and their "issues" but whenever you get something re-built you take the chance of luck of the draw, you have no idea how many times a block or head has been rebuilt and sometimes S@#! happens, but i wish it doesn't have to happen anymore to me. I'm still planning on taking it up to Maine...wish me luck!!

[Glenn]

It's wasn't so cheap! just couldn't justify spending double...sorry I cant spend $7500-10K on a new engine, wasn't aware that Bus DEPOT uses AVP's and their "issues" but whenever you get something re-built you take the chance of luck of the draw, you have no idea how many times a block or head has been rebuilt and sometimes S@#! happens, but i wish it doesn't have to happen anymore to me. I'm still planning on taking it up to Maine...wish me luck!!

Dave, like i said, I understand everyone has a budget and you have to make compromises due to it.

Hopefully this is the only problem that comes up.

I'm sure, when repaired, you'll have many happy miles ahead.

Also I doubt Bus Depot actually builds the engines. So whatever you paid, the company that actually provides them got less. Less money means you have to cut corners.

Most aftermarket heads have cheap valve guilds, ask Julio how much it cost to have them replaced in his new engine.
Most aftermarket heads have cheap valves, springs and retainers.
Most aftermarket heads have casting flash which reduce air flow and cause heads to run hotter.

All of these problems can be resolved, but they cost time and money. This is why Mike did his research and spent a small fortune on "blueprinted" heads.

As replacements we offer our Blueprint Special’s.

We start with a pair of new AMC 2.0 heads, strip the sub-par valves, seats, guides, springs, and retainers and toss them in the scrap barrel.

The Blueprint Specials are machined to accept new high temp, super durable valve seats that are fitted tight with the proper interference fit. The tungsten carbide exhaust seat material we use is wear rated up to 1800*F.

They’re built with new quality parts proven to be durable and reliable. The valve guides we use are silicon/manganese bronze and are extremely wear resistant.

The valves are tough aftermarket stock 2.0 size (39mm x 33mm) O.E. replacements.

The heads are machined and built with pride to factory specifications. Valve stem ht’s are set to +or- .005” for consistent valve train geometry.
Combustion chamber volumes are stock at ~49.5cc’s.

These heads come equipped with a .8mm raised step in the cylinder registers. This step simulates the O.E. head gaskets thickness and allows them to be deleted per VW instructions without installing spacers under the jugs to restore the unswept volume and deck height lost with the deleted gaskets. This raised step counts as deck ht and is added to the deck ht in the cylinders for determining the total deck.

[EDNCAROL]

Glenn way to many words. Dave here's the short version. Good head is going to cost you.

[Glenn]

Good head is going to cost you.

Usually a shrimp cocktail and a few drinks.