Das Volks Vintage Volkswagen Gruppe

beetlejessica wrote: [...because when you don't even have space to work on one VW, you might as well have two!]

VW's are like rabbits, more just keep showing up. Good luck on all fronts!!

Congrats on the new additions!

We got a little bit of work done yesterday but Daniel's hard drive crashed in the middle of the afternoon so we caught the blues and slowed down a lot but here are some pics if anyone's interested. And some questions too.

#1: Our modified Hoover bit arrived just in time to be painted and added to the oil cooler. The mail man came and went and we were mad it hadn't arrived when he drove back about 15 mins. later to say he forgot to deliver a small box and there it was. Now, in place (ignore our cousin's legs in the background)




#2: Then, we got all the tin on but realized there are some serious gaps all over the place. Here are some pictures of the doghouse stuff. The screwdriver is going into a huge gap and the white stuff is weather-stripping we had to use just to get a decent seal between different parts.

And, the piece that comes off the air cooler and the piece that vents to behind the 3/4 head have a crummy fit.



Except for the DP cylinder tins it's all the same tin from our last engine so we've either replaced it incorrectly or it was always a bit of a crappy fit. Look how much of the oil cooler shows at the bottom of the fan shroud. Any advice?



#3: Finally, just to have a sense of accomplishment, we decided to bolt part of the EMPI/Kadron linkage to the case and shroud. What a PITA. In order to clear the fuel pump, Daniel had to file metal off the linkage. That's what's up in this picture.



That's all we got done this weekend.

Hey we always interested when someone puts in some work on their vw.

One of the PO's of my bus must have had some gap issues around the oil cooler since they were very generous with the blue plastic sealer. It is hard, not like a caulk, so not sure what the product is but it sealed it up and some other areas that are not visible in the picture.



Hey better slow and steady progress than no progress at all.

Thanks for the pic and reply Audrey! Definitely looks like someone was trying to solve a similar problem using all that blue stuff.

Does it seem weird to you though that so much of the bottom of the oil cooler is visible in our picture....b/w the OP sender and the screwdriver and especially below? I didn't measure but it looks like a good 1.5" of space between the edge of the shroud and the case and that doesn't seem right at all.

Dan,
Have you looked for other pics online for this gap? I'll check to see if I have any complete motors at home that are visible for you? Its does seems weird tho....

Part of the problem is that the oil cooler is for a Type 3. That's why the oil pressure sender is in the cooler and not the case.

Raj...You're referring to the gap I stuck the screwdriver into in the picture? I have found a few pictures that indicate that kind of gap isn't that unusual and it seems people use either silicone, weatherstripping, or just let it go.

What bugs me is that it's not an aftermarket shroud even if the two other oil cooler pieces are. If the oil cooler tin can be that open, then what's the point of a Hoover bit? Air's still gonna fly out like mad but maybe b/c it's already traveled through the cooler it's not a big deal?

Maybe I"m missing something but it seems it would have been better if oil cooler tin was all part of the shroud like one of those Puma set ups



But even there....around the oil cooler, the tin looks longer in the front than the back. Just like ours

Glenn...other than that really small gap next to the OP sender, the shroud seems to "fit" though a little better on the 1/2 side than the 3/4 side where we have a gap b/w the cylinder tin and shroud in front. In the back, should the shroud fit closer to the case?

Just put duct tape over it, and call it a day.

Glenn wrote:Just put duct tape over it, and call it a day.

Ok....I have some hi-temp HVAC tape sitting around the apartment so I'll just use that.

Glenn wrote:Part of the problem is that the oil cooler is for a Type 3. That's why the oil pressure sender is in the cooler and not the case.

i was under the assumption that a t3 cooler was externally the same size a type one......

yeah DAN... i think its ok bc the escaping air has already passed the oil cooler. I havent had a chnace to run out the garage but will check another motor soon for you. I think your ok.

Raj wrote:

Glenn wrote:Part of the problem is that the oil cooler is for a Type 3. That's why the oil pressure sender is in the cooler and not the case.

i was under the assumption that a t3 cooler was externally the same size a type one......

What I've read suggests the same thing...the only difference is the location of the sender. I could just take off the one from our old engine and compare/measure though just to be sure.

Coolers are the same, just the location of the sender is different.

Glenn wrote:Coolers are the same, just the location of the sender is different.

Right....so then maybe the shroud is "riding" the sender and all I have to do is notch it a bit more for clearance. I'll know for sure in a few hours....

yup... when you saw the shroud that was on the motor at my place, you may recall the cut was very deep. Let us know.

Had a lovely day in the sun struggling with suuuuuper annoying rocker shaft shims (rather sorry we decided to go with ratio rockers because of the time lost to little stuff like that)…took a break to watch a soccer match & get a few provisions for dinner, then finally got the engine ready for install and the car jacked up…

So now it's 11:08pm, I just inhaled some donuts for "dinner" (first thing within reach), and we had to close up the garage because our bodies and brains shouted "NO MORE!"

Here's the problem: we've left the car at Daniel's cousin's house for 3 weeks now and we're almost done but for some mysterious reason we can't get the engine in. We used a clutch alignment tool the whole time so we're pretty confident it's not b/c the clutch is out of whack. None of the other tricks we read about worked.

We also need to get our Kadrons in and tuned so we can get the heck out of here by tomorrow afternoon!

That's a cry for help!

If anyone has any reason to be in Bay Shore tomorrow (Sunday), we'll give them a million bucks, 3 Entenmann's donuts, and a can of beer for a little bit of help.

Jessica 917-292-1781
Daniel 917-776-4197

Dan, did you replace the pressure plate? If so it's possible that you left the centering ring on.

The ring is used on 68-70 transmissions. In 71 they changed design of the throwout bearing and the ring needs to be removed.

This topic on the Samba explains: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=148307

Glenn wrote:Dan, did you replace the pressure plate? If so it's possible that you left the centering ring on.

The ring is used on 68-70 transmissions. In 71 they changed design of the throwout bearing and the ring needs to be removed.

This topic on the Samba explains: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=148307

Glenn...no, the only thing that's different is the clutch disk itself. Could that make a difference? I could swear though that it's the same brand, size, etc. as the one that came out.

That don't be a problem as long as it's aligned.

Well, with a little turning of the engine, we got the thing in, but now the bolts are giving us grief. Able to get the nuts on the bottom two, but the starter bolt refuses to be aligned with its hole. Any ideas?

Make sure the engine is tilted to match the tranny.

It's all about the angle of attack, it's kinda like making a baby. Takes a little practice to find what works

10 hours later.....Engine in.....carbs in...but car will not start. It turns over and over but won't catch.

Took the valve covers off, and the rockers are pumping away, all connections to coil are in place but it doesn't seem to be getting any spark. Also tried rotating distributor both directions while Jessica started to see if timing was way off.

Also this thing broke off the alternator! Could that be causing the starting problem? What to do about that? Solder?

Glenn....does the order of the plug wires change on an 019?

On my old 205T, I had it like this

#3 #2
#4 #1

the firing order is 1-4-3-2 clockwise. The location of #1 could be different. you need to set the engine up so it's at TDC on #1. Then rotate the distirbutor body so the #1 make is pointed to by the rotor.